SUKHOI BMW E30 :D

[Sukhoi]

Hi All,

Here am posting my own project, this project toke me around 3 years to collect all the required parts, the car was my daily drive until I decided to put it off rode, the car now will be used only for Strip/Drag racing and slight drive use.

Project Status: Still ongoing (final Stages).
Location: Amman-Jordan.
Car: BMW E30 1988 4Doors.
Engine: M50B25 NV stroked with forged internals with total displacement ~ 3.1L.
Engine Build: Full engine rebuild with ARP Head/Main, New Bearings, New everything else.
Boost: 2.5Bar or more as Boost target.
Turbo: First Holset HX52 / Then on Holset HX55.
Electrical: Painless Switches Panel / STACK Gauges.
Turbo Accessories: 50mm Tial BOV / 46mm Precision Wastegate / 6-to-1 Exhaust Manifold with 3mm pipes wall thickness.
Fuel: E100 for race / 95 Octane on day drive.
Fuel Delivery: 2x 044 Bosch fuel pumps for e100 Fuel with 1700cc Injectors/ 1x Walbro with 870cc for 95 Octane Fuel.
ECU: VEMS 3.6 / Customized V3Harness.
Sensors: MAT / EGT / Fuel Pressure Sensor (VEMS 0-700 kPa differential pressure sensor)/ VEMS display / Boost Controller.
Trigger System: Stock 60-2 trigger / Cams-Sync.
Coils: D858 Coils with Granatelli Coil Near Plug Wire Set.
VEMS Motorsport options: Launch Control, WOT Shift, and Map switch to selecte between E100 Fuel and 95 Octane.

EDIT: Forgot to add the 4" exhust downpipe which splits into dual 3" each one will be on each end (like e21 alpina style  )

Here some photos of the parts involved:

Big Ass 76mm Intercooler


Custom made aluminum intake manifold


Custom made 282/282 Cams


Coils


PPF rings gasket


Revshift Flex disk (Not flex anymore )


Oil Cap for adding oil cooler


China made Oil cooler (will see if it holds well)


E100 Fuel system filters (although I get my e100 pure clean)


Nice cosmetic to make the engine happy


Assembly lube with Head/Main studs


Tial 50mm BOV (it should sounds nice)


Radiator Hoses, and 76mm to 85mm adapter for the throttle body.


85mm Throttle body



HUGE Aeromotive Fuel pressure regulator (for E1oo fuel system)


Injectors


STACK Gauges


Placed VEMS fuses and relays in this cute modular holder, need the extra space to add the 9 relays that will switch between E100 and 95 Octane



Fuel pumps


New Timing Chain


Mounts


Tilton 7.25" OT-II Triple Plate Clutch kit


Rear End work






Pistons & Rods


Some of the engine Work







Front 4 Piston Brembo Brakes


Engine with Tilton and light weight steel flywheel



Soon more to come.....

Thanks,

[ank]

Monster build!
M54b30 crank?
What pistons and rods?
Calculated CR?
Please share if not secret
Thinking to build almost the same motor.

[Sukhoi]

Thanks for your response.

I will be happy to share anything, setup as the following:

1- M54B30 Crank, same stroke as S52B32 (89.6mm).
2- Eagle 135mm Rods.
3- Custom made Wiseco pistons with 85mm bore.

Pistons made to have 8.5:1 CR as they raise 0.22mm from deck, the target power from this setup will be between 800-900HP.

Now we are in the process of installing the cams and timing them, as I still have to much electrical work to be done to be able to switch between the fuel systems, also there are more future upgrades, including rear Ford 9" end, auto transmission, and Dry sump setup, but first I have to get done with the current power target and later I will upgrade it.

[ank]

Thanks for share!

Need advice!
I also in progress with implementation of bi-fuel system (ethanol and common fuel), with next scheme:
Two fuel rails(vems Injector Staging func.), one - common fuel with tiny stock injectors, second ethanol with 2000+cc inj which are off when no boost.
When boost comes up, vems turn on second line of injectors (by misc output) and adds some ethanol, bigger boost - bigger percentage of ethanol.

How do you think, would it work?

PS sorry for my bad English, I'm from Ukraine:)

[GintsK]

Probably not the right place for this discussion. Can you create own thread for this?
In short yes - it is doable and VEMS has special easy routine for it.

[Sukhoi]

A new thread should be created for sure for the dual injectors settings, but I think someone should do the thread after it's being done and 100% working, am still building my project so am not 100% sure if it's working or not!

Anyhow, am not using the injector staging here, I will work with 2 maps settings, and each map control different set of injectors.

My idea is to make a 1 switch to swap between fuel injectors, fuel pumps, and VEMS map switch, so far am using 9 relays to get this thing done, below a drawing explains it ,as I used names works for me:



I added warning lights to tell me what settings am running, plus it will be much more less if I used 5 pins relays, but am controlled with my Relay box.

as I will have the injector signal shared for each injector location (means Ethanol injector 1 share the Gasoline Injector 1 signal wire) and I will control the power feed by relays.


Here my relay box arrangement, as am still working on it.


As am still working on the wiring and will post it all when it's working.

[ank]

Good schematics, thx!

[VemsedE36]

From where u got the cams?

[ank]

news?

[Sukhoi]

Don't have much time so far, the engine in car now, everything ready, as I added drive-shaft loops to the single piece drive-shaft, I still have to do the wiring and place the intercooler pipes, as am busy with others cars, soo I will post them all

[Sukhoi]

Hi again,

Here the work that I have been doing so far, I got sometime to work on the car since am was at home recovering from my sickness  I should had some time to rest, but couldn't imagine doing nothing for 3 weeks !!!

I should had the car running in that time, but there was a little surprise waiting for me all this time :



It's not that much clear from the photo, well it's a little crack between the wheel housing and the firewall, and little rust under the stock fuse/relay box area, well for the first look it don't seems that much bad, but I tested it by pouring some water, and noticed that water gets behind the firewall from that crack!, then I quickly locked inside the car to see if the water is going into the carpet or not, but I got shocked when I saw nothing     

That made me lose my mind, and had me to take off the dash board and car carpet to realize this:







I can put everything back as I saw nothing and start the car then I can fix it later, but it would be a wrong decision, so I started to fix it back   

Had a friend to check what areas needs to cut and weld new plates and what other areas I can just scratch and re paint as OEM style with proper protection:












I really hated working on the driver side, there was so much surface rust, that I hand scratched. 



The good thing that the rear seat area was clean



So I decided for sure, that am not going to put the carpet back  am only going to isolate it well and paint it black (as the car color) and put everything back, it would look better  and will be much easier when am converting it to track car only (Future idea), plus I will watch for the rust from now on!

so I did my part and waiting my friend to cut and weld the required plates so we can paint over.

In that time, I started the engine wiring, so I got great progress with that:

here the 12 Injectors wiring, sensors ,and coils:





As I added 70mm^2 main battery wires with proper soldered terminals (still need to add better quality heat shrinks).



The other surprise I got that the car electrical harness are soooooooo damaged and altered from previous owner, it was full of sticky electrical tape with too much burned wires (Why would they leave burned wire in place and have new one beside it!!!!!!!)

so I did the other crazy thing and toke all the original harness and throw it away 

I had to buy new one or do mine, I looked into shops and found other harnesses, but thought what would make them better than the one the throw away!!! I don't know how the wires look from the inside!! mine got damaged wires and full of rust and other crazy things! so I toke the hard choice and did my own harness, so I can do only the things I require, and leave those things that I don't want, remember that I want it to be easier for me to convert it to pure track car  so here what I ended up with:





I need to add few extra switches along with my own relay/fuse box that I will place in the gloves box location, so I can have easy to maintain electrical system that I know everything about it, soon will add photos when it's all complete 

The good part, that I had my intake manifold back, well I decided to replace the 80mm system with 90mm one, so now I have 90mm throttle body with 76mm intercooler pipes going from turbo into the cooler, and 85mm pipes from cooler into the throttle  Pus I added the extra 6 injectors from the rear, so they should not be easy to notice from the first looks into the engine bay







As a final thing I added the gauges sensors (Heat,Pressure, and the stock oil pressure )



Thats what I have done so far, they are little tasks but takes too much time and work, plus to much good quality wires, I made sure to use better and thicker wires from the stock ones, some places I used MIL Spec wires for extra safty.

Soon will post the updates as am still didn't stop working on the car, am going to finish as much as I can while I have the time 

[VemsedE36]

From where u got the cams?

[gunni]

It will be interesting to see how that manifold works on the M50, I haven´t seen any reviews on it yet.

[VemsedE36]

It will be interesting to see how that manifold works on the M50, I haven´t seen any reviews on it yet.

I'm using same..works great

[Sukhoi]

I have tuned 2 M50's with the same intake manifold, but they were 80mm throttle size, as they work well with no VE drop and better response as it seems the power increase on all RPM range, but mine got the long runners, am going to see how it will act on these long runners and might get them shorted if I didn't like the top end, will see how these runners work and will report.