Hi, my name is andre and i live in the Netherlands
I have a GTTI as a hobby car where DIY is the key word.
the car is a 3 cilinder 12valve 993cc engine, delivering 107hp standard.
My goal is 180-200 and lots of fun building
The car gets a pretty basic Vems install with a:
24-1 Hall trigger wheel ( Hall TLE4905L glued 55deg BTDC from the Vems shop)
1 tooth Hall cam sensor ( Hall SS443A glued in the Dizzy 90deg before Missing teeth sensed at cranck)
knock sensor. ( fitted at the rear center of the engineblock Toyota celica turbo sensor)
Ignition through single coil and original distribution setup
WBO2 (Bosch from Vems shop)
Boostvalve control
3 sequential fired injectors
vems also controls the radiator fan and the fuelpump through the original relays and the original dash boost light, tacho and a engine checklight
(P259 channels)
I builded the controler into the original ECU box, and wired the original Loom to the controller.
original V+ comes from the main relay.
Injectors, WBO2 and coil connected to the Injection relay V+
Controller central Mass cable connected to engine head,
and GND and GND5 connected to this cable.
My car has Regrinded Kent cams, a 45mm throttlebody (original 35)
standard 295cc injectors because i burnt my 450cc
hybrid turbo, FMC
and a paddle clutch lightned flywheel and custom made allumium poulies.
TIP: Use computer mouse cable for Hall or other sensor cables
it has 5 wires and aluminium shielding and copper shielding.
Connect the sheelding only to the controller side Mass,
leave the other side unconnected and use maskingtape to prevent shorts.
For glueing your Hall sensor to allumium engine parts use UHU-300 superfest hobby glue
Tooths and degrees,
In my search understanding this i share my findings with you, i dont know exactly if its right but should get the engine started
i dentify where about the TDC is reletive to the missing tooth.
measure the degrees of your Hall sensor's position to the pistons first cilinder TDC.
measure the degrees of the missing tooth to cilinders TDC.
If the sensor is fitted 55deg before TDC and TDC is situated 60deg after the missing on the thooth wheel the missing has 55deg to travel to TDC but the piston 55+60 = 115deg.
So when the missing is detected the piston is at 115 BTDC.
Now the trigger tooth is the tooth setup in the software after the missing tooth, this can be the first tooth called '0' or the 12 thooth called '11'.
At the trigger tooth injectors inject always, but ignition can be set in the tooth reference table to spark after the trigger tooth + degrees set in 'TDC after Trigger' in primary trigger settings. in the injector table you can select wich injector to start injecting at the trigger tooth the next comes after next trigger tooth.
So if you want to inject earlier you can select a previous cilinder or swap your ignition table, or both.
Problems encounterd::
Safe Mode not disablingI think i solved this with setting the iButton feature in base settings -> ECU calibrations
Setting the High bit to 190 and the Low bit to 239 should enable the ECU.
(Fixed)Building my Loom i totally forgot about fuel relay wire, so no fuelpump running 
(Fixed)WBO2 way off followed these steps
WBO2 hardware test(Fixed)Fried coil: IGBT switching transistor burnt because of short left IGBT in ON state.
(Fixed)Fried Injectors: Testing them manual, not a good idea.
(Fixed)Fried P259: Shorted while testing voltages on the board
(Fixed)No Cam trigger: Wanted to use the original VR cam trigger, ordered an extra LM815 but to much problems i changed the whole setup to Cam HAll rewired through original Loom and glued magnet and sensor in dizzy
(Fixed)No fuel injected: Didnt read the manual and wiki good enough and left a Overrun fuelcut feature on.
"Overrun Fuel Cut Pressure based=> 140 kpa" (F1) Fuel is cut
BELOW this setting.
"Overrun Fuel Cut Pressure based" => 0... Yes fuel injected.
(Fixed)Stupidety, i presumed my standard injectors where 395cc, searching google revieled they are 295cc/min
(Fixed)Communication, Vems crashing and reconnecting evry 5sec. Probeply my Laptop has not enough memory to handle all processes when Vems is loaded.
(Verified = ok)It turned out my old boorloader didnt correspond well with the new firmware.
Uploaded a new bootloader with fw.1.1.87, but this firmware isnt available yet for Vemstune so connection still wasnt happy. Uploaded the new boorloader again with 1.1.87 fw and new settings for the fuses because the board stayed in boorloader mode evrytime at powerup. Did didnt help after the new upload the board stil started in bootloader mode even with fuses set. Uploaded 1.1.84 with Vemstune and now the marker is set by VT and evrything works pretty stable and the board startsup in stead of starting in bootmode.
(Fixed)Crazy Fuel settings???::Sparks on a dizzy means right plugs are fired, fuel is injected but to get a puf from the engine it feels like i need to set crazy settings for my engine. Cranck VE=> 250%, 400-500% cranck enrichment, inj. pulse 7,5ms ((993/3/285)x6,49 and 900uS Rampup) PW 58us @ crancking
New injectors 460cc high ohm (12,6) cleaned and balanced and the new firmware with modest settings for cold/warm enrichment and 450uS for rampup and bat correction will do the trick. I know soon for a new starting attempt ...
Update 10-01-11:: New bootloader and firmware 1.1.84 didnt start the car, last weekend i took the loom outof the car and rewire the V+ feed to injectors, coil and WBO2 and boost bleed valve. Also rewired the dashlights for a clean look by wiring them through the incar connector instead with loose wires under the dashboard.
This morning tried to start the engine but didnt have succes, it looks like the cilinders wont get the required fuel they supposed to get. The only thing i can think of to check is the flyback wire and FET's. I checked the Injector connectors voltage and switched a 0,5w light bulp fitted to the connectors with the FET's wich works well. 
Update: 03-09-2011
Drove the car home in april because i needed to leave the garage i had,
after this couple of major problems fixed.
* severe oil leaking. Wrong sump gasket, replaced with new wright one
(Fixed)* Injector cyl.1 not closing fast enough leaving carbon build up on plug.
Solder joint connecting FET+ with V+ and first flyback diode was cracked
(Fixed)To source down the oil leakage i replaced the cranckseal aswell.
To source down the broken solder joint replaced connectors at coil, coil wire, cam position sensor cleaned and checked position as well the cranck sensor.
Upgraded firmeware from 1.1.85 to 1.1.95 for better acceleration enrichment but this wasnt a succes.
Because of a software change to reset SD-card, my ECU reseted while driving the car really enoying even got me stuck once on the middle of the highway so downgraded to 1.1.85 again and all works fine.
Jobs to do:
Fine tuning the fuel map,
Its hard to find the correct settings driving under very light load like through town with 30km/h in second.
Getting the knock sensor to work and act is difficult.
The sensor works in the Log file, but getting noise scale, threshold and gain set at the right values needs diving in deep into the subject.
To get more resolution at the fuel table i divided the req.fuel by 2 and doubled the fuel table values.
also added a extra column between 1200 and 1500 rpm trying to get low loads better to work.
Also have some rare (once, twice in a 15-30min drive) trigger error when cruising steady or with release of the throttle pedal.
