I thought that OEM idle control was replicated in VEMS with ignition control and IAC
Forgive me if I am being blunt, but what else do you need? the IAC valve should be set such that, at idle, air can still be removed (roughly 40 steps if its a stepper). Throttle stop should be adjusted to give you your desired idle with the desired idle advance. Idle ignition thresholds set to +-5. I have never had a problem. idle PID set up however, is a tuners nightmare, as there is little explanation of what P is which means you are changing numbers to get the results, without really knowing whats going on.
I can get my engine to start and idle at 1250rpm when cold, ramping down to 850rpm when warm and controls well at 850rpm once I have tuned PID. Afterstart I see another 200rpm ramp down over 3 seconds, Turn on all the lights, wipers and rear screen heater, and the idle control sees the change in engine load and brings the rpm back up again. It replicates that which was the OEM ECU.
Now if this is not enough what else is there? Perhaps modern (read that as within the last 10 years) OEM systems work some other magic, but what you have to really consider is that you will never ever be able to control an engine anywhere near as well as ANY OEM ECU unless you buy a high end Motec or similar, even then im not sure it would be as good.
A cold start ignition map would be more important, and in recent firmwares there has been an effort to get something like.
I have had experience of Emerald, Motec and Specialist Components ECUs and im not sure i have seen an 'idle advance' map, they do have simple cold start advance maps.