Crank no start

[beefjurky69]

Ok cool I'll check timing and make sure the Trigger wheel is good and tight.

[beefjurky69]

So i had a few hrs to work on the car today...What i found was the crank pulley was rubbing on the water pump pulley. Seems like the crank pulley moved foward. So i rotated the crank pulley to check timing and it seems to be off. Not sure how that could had happened maybe the woodruff key came off? Didnt have time to pull everything apart def going to do tomorrow. Would the timing being off cause a valve to hit a piston? I will have everything apart tomorrow and see what the deal is.

[beefjurky69]

Timing is on the money woodruff key is in tact still no start. Here are the latest log files...Going to buy a fuel pressure guage and check fuel pressure stock fuel pump might have gone bad.

http://rapidshare.com/files/443115721/v3.3_n001009-2011.01.17-13.43.49.vemslog
http://rapidshare.com/files/443115783/v3.3_n001009-2011.01.17-13.49.37.vemslog

[mattias]

You obviously have a larger MAP sensor than 250 kPa, as it reads about 79-80 kPa atmoshperic before you start cranking. Press F1, try the recommended values for the sensors without touching the offset (leave it at 0). The one that brings you nearest to 100 kPa is the one to use, correct the small error to your actual atmospheric pressure using the offset value.

Cranking pulsewidth looks more reasonable now, and you've taken such a big step down in cranking fuel that you're quite possibly on the low side now, instead of excessively rich like you were before.  You can try changing the "crank VE%" up/down to affect the cranking to see what the engine really wants.  Try playing with the throttle a bit when it doesn't want to start, it might be lacking some air and I can see you're trying that in the 2nd log file, but it could be flooding and you can try WOT (flood clear).

What worries me is that it doesn't even seem to cough or jerk a bit, the rpm is constant. Tried some starter gas?
Disconnect the intake pipe at the throttle to make that easier to test.

[beefjurky69]

I'll try starting fluid and also do a fuel pressure test...I thought timing was the issue but it wasn't. I'll try calibrating the MAP to get it close to 100kpa and see if that help.

[beefjurky69]

I tried starter fluid and still no go, i uped the starting fuel sounds better like it wants to start. I re calibrated the map to close to 100kpa with key on engine off and still no start.

Checked ignition timing with an old school timing light and im at 65 degrees advanced will cranking how is that possiable? I never changed anything with ignition timing thats why its weired. Here are a few more log files not sure if you can see the ignition timing through them. How can i set it back to normal i think its 30 degees at cranking?

[mattias]

If 65 degrees is actually what you're seeing then no wonder it never wants to start.

If you want to fix your timing problem, you need to offset  65-10 = 55 degrees more. You can do this by increasing the trigger tooth by (55/6) 9 teeth and then add a couple of degrees on the "TDC after the trigger" for fine tuning.  But it doesn't make sense !!

All your trigger settings are, and should be, just like any BMW M20/M30 6 cyl with the stock 60-2 trigger. There is no reason to change the settings if the trigger wheel and sensor are mounted just like any standard engine of this type.

I still think your problem is mechanical, and could explain why it suddenly didn't want to run.

[beefjurky69]

Cam to crank timing is on the money I must have checked that like 10 times. The OT mark on the back of the crank pulley lines up with the mark on the timing belt cover. The mark on the cam pulley lines upmwith the mark on the head next to the cam cover bolt hole. All line up perfect. I don't know what else mechanical it can be. I used an old school timing light and I turned the knob all the way up to 65 degrees before the missing tooth part of the crank pulley was lined up with the mark on the cam cover. Am I checking it right? Am I using the right marks?

Is there any way to change the ignition timing through Vems? That's what at 65 degree. Ignition timing is what's checked when using a timing light right? I just cant see anything else that's mechanically bad or off unless I'm missing something. I went through all the check lists you gave me and all is well.

[mattias]

There are some basics to understand here about EFI in general.

Are you confusing the "TDC after the trigger" setting (Primary Trigger settings dialog) with whatever your idea of "ignition timing" is ?
This value is usually around 60 degrees, or maybe 65-66 in your case if you used one step earlier trigger tooth (teeth being 6 degrees apart)

"Old school" or not, you seem to have used a "smart" timing light where you can set the advance delay in degrees. This type of light is very practical when you have no other real timing marks other than "top dead center", in your case the "OT" mark.  You must set the dial on the timing light to exactly what the ECU is using at that moment to properly align the marks, in your case 10 degrees which is the cranking advance.
You seem to misunderstand what is happening and you're using wasted spark to further complicate the usage of the "smart" delay function of this device. This engine will ignite like a 2-stroke on every revolution making the "smart delay" compensate too little unless it also has a setting to switch between 4-stroke and 2-stroke (wasted spark for a 4-stroke). To simplify things it's good to know that when you set the dial to 0 degrees no delay at all will be used and it will work just like a "dumb" timing light and flash exactly when the spark actually occurs instead of delaying until the "top dead center" comes up.

Only if the cam belt slips will the cam gear and the crank damper OT marks not line up correctly. And if it has slipped it will also mean that you have bent valves and possibly destroyed the engine in the process.
Now, if the woodruf key is destroyed, the hub will most likely have rotated a bit and the marks on the cam gear and damper OT marks will still line up but you may have a mess inside the engine.
The only way to check the hub without taking things apart is to put a feeler down an ignition plug hole and verify that the damper OT mark still lines up with the timing belt cover.

Do this.  Set the cranking advance to 0 degrees, and the timing light dial to 0 degrees as well. The "smart" timing light will now NOT delay the light at all and should light up the damper when the OT marks on the damper line up with the mark on the timing belt cover. Confirm it, and disable the injectors (pull connectors or fuse) while doing it unless you already did.

[beefjurky69]

Where through Vems do I have to go to set my advance to 0?
Could I still have bent valves even if I have 150 psi of compression across the board?
I used a screw driver down the ignition hole to verify TDC and it lines up with the OT mark perfect.

[mattias]

The cranking advance can be set in the same dialog where you set "crank VE %", namely "Priming, cranking, afterstart" dialog.
This is probably more useful since the engine is not running and you can only crank it.

Or you can temporarily set it via the ignition lock dialog in the Tools menu, more useful with a running engine to quickly test different timing.

[beefjurky69]

Ok so had a bmw tech (friend of mine) Check evrything over with me mechaniclly and everything seems to be fine. We switch around plug wires...like on coil 1 we flipped cyl 1 with cyl 6 on the coil poles. Got the car to start at WOT but ran like complete crap and would keep an idle. Flipped the other coils around but made no differance as per running better. Removed the MAP vacuum line to see if that help and it seemed to make a little differance but i dont know that's on the last log. Here are a few logs i took while doing all these things check them out and tell me what you think. I have a feeling ignition or injection timing is off. I also checked timing with the light at another wire and couldn't get the TDC to even come up but I might not even to using the light right since I'm running wasted spark. I don't know this is giving me grey hair lol.

http://rapidshare.com/files/443673858/v3.3_n001009-2011.01.20-19.38.52.vemslog
http://rapidshare.com/files/443673868/v3.3_n001009-2011.01.20-19.39.37.vemslog
http://rapidshare.com/files/443673880/v3.3_n001009-2011.01.20-19.39.58.vemslog
http://rapidshare.com/files/443673897/v3.3_n001009-2011.01.20-19.54.18.vemslog