Hi Guys,
im starting to do a shopping list of parts needed to go wasted spark on my 3.9,
any one got any pics of there install? any brackets i need to make etc? or anything else you can think of.
just trying to sort things out ready so once i have it all i can set to work and know i will not have to wait for anything,
any one also got an ignition map that i could use as a start point.
Yes - I have a reasonable starting map you can have. It's for a "mild" TVR cam, so you'll need to be a bit careful.
I made a coil bracket that fitted on the right hand rocker. Not sure where the pics are...
I also had some dizzy bungs made up.
cheers Dave the map would be great.,
gives me some thing to work on,
does the crank sensor come with a bracket? or do i need to make one?
yes I can supply photo's but see my post shortly to be posted in the making sparks section :(
regards
agriv8
cheers m8,
i will wait :D
Tony sory for the lo res images but phone camera only until new works laptop is sorted.
the bracket is bolted to the two horisontal flats machined on the inlet casting. drilled and tapped to m8 if IIRC ( one of the lower tabs had to be adjusted out of the way ), will tidy it up once the testing sage is over.
Its a bit close to the act performance throttle body at the moment but further adjustment is planned. but mounted at the gearbox end, its the only place it would go in my install as the dizzie will be stopping until i can cut an old one down to drive the oil pump
(http://i167.photobucket.com/albums/u157/Agriv8/DSC00088.jpg)
(http://i167.photobucket.com/albums/u157/Agriv8/DSC00090.jpg)
let me know if you need anything further.
Ps are you planning to visit york Drag stip at any point ? planning a run in mine as part of a yearly run what you brung organised by locostbuilders group. especially if I can get those 8j rims with slicks fitted ;D ;D
regards
Mine's a Serp engine, so my crank trigger is a little different. It came as a kit, so it bolted on in a similar way to Agriv8's.
The P38 Rangerover coils just fit straight on to the later engines. I suspect they fit the earlier ones just as well.
where abouts in the pic is the crank trigger :-[
Give me a moment Just had to go for a walk with the missus.
Regards
Agriv8
here you go
its stonger than it looks basically made up from some of cuts of ally. one plate bolted to the front cover spaced with a couple of bolts
2 X 90 deg brakets bolted to the plate has slots to enable adjustment of the gap between the pickup and the trigger.
the 2 times brackets back to back two holes one for the bolt to hold the pickup in place one for the actual pickup to pass through ( tightish fit to stop it wagling about )
Oh out to add its an SD1 front cover
(http://i167.photobucket.com/albums/u157/Agriv8/DSC00091.jpg)
Let me know if you want anything further.
Regards
Agriv8
what edis modual do i need?
edis 4? or two of them? or edis 8?
sorry for the questions, just trying to get things sorted,
i gather i will also need two 4cyl coil packs.
You dont need EDIS modules, VEMS has the VR sensor and coil drivers built in.
Just the coils then, wasted spark will do you fine, two four cylinder coils. Bosch ones are good as they use easily obtainable Junior timer connectors.
Rob
cheers rob,
do i need the crank sensor from the same motors that have the coil packs?
or do i buy a new one from some where?
i also need to sort shielded wire also dont i?
The trick will be to get a known good crank trigger and sensor. dnb and Agriv8 have more info on this than I have.
For sheilded cable I use high quality Microphone cable, as a VR sensor is effectively a fixed coil microphone.
I'm afraid I just spent money getting a crank trigger as I didn't have time for lots of testing. It came from John Eales as a kit including a 36-1 tooth wheel, Ford VR sensor and brackets. You can buy the bits separately and build your own brackets fairly easily.
Something like one of these for the trigger wheel:
http://www.trigger-wheels.com/rv8/ (http://www.trigger-wheels.com/rv8/)
Any Ford VR sensor would do. I'll look out the part number for mine...
cheers guys,
that would be great dave, i can get the sensor ordered up then.
do any of the ford coil packs use the old dizzy cap ends?
or will my ends need changing?
Quote from: dnb on April 22, 2007, 12:52:56 AM
I'm afraid I just spent money getting a crank trigger as I didn't have time for lots of testing. It came from John Eales as a kit including a 36-1 tooth wheel, Ford VR sensor and brackets. You can buy the bits separately and build your own brackets fairly easily.
Something like one of these for the trigger wheel:
http://www.trigger-wheels.com/rv8/ (http://www.trigger-wheels.com/rv8/)
Any Ford VR sensor would do. I'll look out the part number for mine...
Please do not underestimate the importance of a tried and tested crank trigger. We have had a huge number of problems with various aftermarket and home made triggers. The best setup of all is OEM, following that a tried and tested setup.
If you want to go the way of making your own brackets, finding the right sensor and accepting that you're likely to have to spend a fair amount of time with a 'scope, and designing various filters.
Having read the whole of the Trigger Wheels site it does look a comprehensive kit, you could get all of what you need there, and it looks like some work has been done in the Rover V8 arena. I'll give Chris, the Trigger Wheels man an email and see if they've used the kit with an LM1815 (the VEMS VR trigger sensor chip).
Quote from: dnb on April 22, 2007, 12:52:56 AM
I'm afraid I just spent money getting a crank trigger as I didn't have time for lots of testing. It came from John Eales as a kit including a 36-1 tooth wheel, Ford VR sensor and brackets. You can buy the bits separately and build your own brackets fairly easily.
Something like one of these for the trigger wheel:
http://www.trigger-wheels.com/rv8/ (http://www.trigger-wheels.com/rv8/)
Any Ford VR sensor would do. I'll look out the part number for mine...
I bought one from that chap - laser cut with excelent tooth edges ( would think that importand so you get a good on/off signal ). ford pickup .
bought the solid one and lathed the center to fit the crank pully ( interferance fit to ensure no wobble ) bolted through using the three pully bolt holes anyway off to do a bit of logging.
Got the following reply:
Quote from: TriggerWheels.co.uk
> Have your wheel and sensor combinations been used with the LM1815 chip? (I'm
> guessing that they have).
Yes, they should all work just fine. Although not on our website yet
your customer may be interested to know that we now have some sensor
bracketry available for the RV8. They only came back from
manufacturing late on Friday so we've not yet checked them over but
they're imminently going to be available.
If there's anything else we can do to help then just shout.
mmm sounds like i could be saving myself some time with the bracketry
Yep, it seems like you could get the coil packs, connectors, triggers, the whole damn thing.
And as Agriv8 has had success with it you'll be able to use his trigger setup too.
result, thats if agriv8 dont mind sharing with me ::) ::) ::) ::)
Quote from: Tony C on April 22, 2007, 01:07:47 AM
cheers guys,
that would be great dave, i can get the sensor ordered up then.
do any of the ford coil packs use the old dizzy cap ends?
or will my ends need changing?
Sensor number is:
6C315
88WFAD
Quote from: [email protected] on April 22, 2007, 07:12:54 PM
Yep, it seems like you could get the coil packs, connectors, triggers, the whole damn thing.
And as Agriv8 has had success with it you'll be able to use his trigger setup too.
We've already got 30+ customers sucessfully using the rover V8 trigger wheel kits since they went on sale earlier in the year and prior to that most rover customers were using the standard "universal" 6.5" trigger wheels, I'm guessing that there are easily 100+ of those in the field and they use exactly the same tooth pattern as the RV8 specific kits. Admittedly some of those will be EDIS installations and the majority of them are Megasquirt rather than VEMS installs but both VEMS and Megasquirt are LM1815 systems when they do native tooth decoding so in as much as it is possible it should be a foolproof installation.
With regard to the sensor bracketry please don't get too excited about either that or the upcoming coil pack mounts as until we've done a test installation we will not be allowing them into the wild.
QuoteSensor number is:
6C315
88WFAD
Do check the price with your ford dealer before getting them to order one in as they're somewhat more expensive than the ones we supply (Ã,£20) and Ford don't supply a connector.
For RV8 plug leads then the old fiesta leads work beautifully but you need to be a little careful which ones you get as some models had leads that were far too short for this purpose. Needless to say the ones we stock are the long ones :)
i gather the ends on my 8mm mallory race leads wont fit then trigger?
Quote from: Tony C on April 23, 2007, 07:44:34 PM
i gather the ends on my 8mm mallory race leads wont fit then trigger?
I'm afraid not. We've had reports that such leads can be tweaked to fit the 2nd generation coil packs and also that the "hotwires" adaptors that you can get from halfords or most motor factors can be used on 1st gen coils but it's not ideal. Re-crimping the ends on your leads is another way that you can go.
The leads we stock are for 1st gen coil packs and are 8mm silicone, they're not expensive and provide a plug and play solution. Alternatively you can have magnecor or splitfire make up a custom set with lengths to your specifications, it's not cheap to do it that way but it makes for a lovely neat install.
spose i could get the ends and do it myself, (fitted the ends on the leads i have now)
next question, what ends do i need? anmd where can i get them from,
cheers guys :)
I know its been a while but at last i have the bits for the wasted spark set up.
(http://www.v8forum.co.uk/images/newengine/sensors.jpg)
hope to start fitting it all this weekend,
any reference to where the crank sensor should be in reference to the missing tooth when at TDC?
reason i ask the engine is locked at TDC after setting the cam etc.