Hi guys,
I'll introduce myself first. My name is Andy from the Portsmouth area of the UK. I've owned the S40 for about 2 getting on to 3 years now. It came from the factory in 1998 as a 2.0T SE (1948cc) and produced 160bhp. I bought it with the intention of modifying it to around the 250bhp mark with the aid of a new turbo (from the T4 motor) a few other bits and bobs along with a remap.
Here's one of the oldest pics I have to hand -
(http://i274.photobucket.com/albums/jj259/tr1als/car/general/side1.jpg)
Mmmmm... lovely.. Ok, on with the mods. It wasn't long before the 250bhp "goal" was out the window, a nice 300bhp was in order. In went new cams (from the 2.0n/a model) hybrid turbo, custom FMIC all the piping made by myself (virtually nothing is off the shelf with this car), full 3" turbo back exhaust and 441cc bosch injectors.
As well as the power I wanted it to handle well so it was fitted with KW coilovers, whiteline rear ARB, 17's with good rubber and a rear strutbrace. I also made a few minor exterior mods and I crafted an RS4 front bumper to house the FMIC. The car was looking more like this...
(http://i274.photobucket.com/albums/jj259/tr1als/car/general/IMAG3279.jpg)
So, off i went to get the car mapped. All was well and the car was amazing. It was put on the rollers (in 3rd gear for some reason) and made ~290bhp and ~340lbs/ft!!! The very next morning was nice and dry and very cold, perfect, I'll give it a little "test" down the motorway to see how its performing.....it came off the motorway like this...
(http://i274.photobucket.com/albums/jj259/tr1als/car/jamies/IMG_457720Large.jpg)
(http://i274.photobucket.com/albums/jj259/tr1als/car/jamies/IMG_458620Large.jpg)
(http://i274.photobucket.com/albums/jj259/tr1als/car/jamies/IMG_459720Large.jpg)
(http://i274.photobucket.com/albums/jj259/tr1als/car/jamies/IMG_460220Large.jpg)
(http://i274.photobucket.com/albums/jj259/tr1als/car/jamies/IMG_460420Large.jpg)
Banana spec rods!!
Now this was the turning point, it all went a little mad from here. Those of you that have rebuilt of engine will know the saying "whilst its out I might as well...."
New rods of course..
(http://i274.photobucket.com/albums/jj259/tr1als/car/rebuild/IMG_5912Large.jpg)
But then I might as well fit lower comp pistons...(Phase 2 T4 pistons 8.5:1cr mahle forged OEM)
(http://i274.photobucket.com/albums/jj259/tr1als/car/rebuild/IMG_5958Large.jpg)
My standard pistons had valve pockets in them so just in case...
(http://i274.photobucket.com/albums/jj259/tr1als/car/jamies/IMG_639620Large.jpg)
Now the engine is good for much more power, so I might as well.....
(http://i274.photobucket.com/albums/jj259/tr1als/car/rebuild/IMG_6383Large.jpg)
(turbo is a Turbotechnics T38)
But I was having traction issues with less power so...
(http://i274.photobucket.com/albums/jj259/tr1als/car/rebuild/IMG_5081Large.jpg)
Big power, makes sense to get....
(http://i274.photobucket.com/albums/jj259/tr1als/car/rebuild/IMG_5937Large1.jpg)
(KAD billet alu 6 pots and AP racing 330mm x28mm dics, alu bells)
All in...
(http://i274.photobucket.com/albums/jj259/tr1als/car/engine/DSC00255.jpg)
...And off to get mapped again.
Unfortunately I didn't have the time to get the map 100% finished. It was only maxing 1.4/1.5 bar (75% DC on the BCS) and the fueling was only good up to 6500rpm. According the the mapper it was making around the ~375bhp mark on the "butt dyno" (car was mapped on the road).
The car was fast but I wasn't happy with it. The car was smoking a little so i took the turbo off and sent it to CR turbos for a diagnosis. I guessed that the piston rings wern't staggered gap and was leaking a bit of oil. CR took it apart and rebuit it and found it did have the staggered rings (replaced with new anyway) but noticed that I wasn't using an oil restrictor and that was the cause. Sent it back with a restrictor fitted totally FOC!
The manifold I was using was a modified T5 cast one - basically with one of the runners lopped off. I wasn't particularly happy with it so "whilst the turbo is off" I just as well make a tubualar...
I bought a cheap Mitsu Evo 1/2/3 manifold to switch flanges to make fit
(http://i274.photobucket.com/albums/jj259/tr1als/car/manifold/DSC00022.jpg)
Then I was offered a GT2876R, which would suit my car better so I snapped that up...
(http://i274.photobucket.com/albums/jj259/tr1als/car/turbo/IMG_1193.jpg)
Whilst all this was going on I thought I'd upgrade the head, so I got a rare Phase 1 T4(t2) head which comes standard with solid lifters and high flow valves..... But as it was out I just as well port it!
(http://i274.photobucket.com/albums/jj259/tr1als/car/head/DSC00142.jpg)
I thought it would just be easier to build the engine out of the car so...
(http://i274.photobucket.com/albums/jj259/tr1als/car/misc/DSC00124.jpg)
Just a random shot of the one or two parts laying about...
(http://i274.photobucket.com/albums/jj259/tr1als/car/misc/DSC00128.jpg)
And finally, because I chat to Tomislav (Tcode on here) every day when I should be working (like now!) he finally talked me into getting a standalone ECU, obviously biased towards VEMS.
It wasn't long before I had placed my order with Rob (thanks again). I've not done much work with it because I've got LOADS on my plate at the moment - I need an engine in the car to start with! But I've managed to do this..
(http://i274.photobucket.com/albums/jj259/tr1als/car/VEMS/DSC00068.jpg)
I'm reluctant to cut out all of my existing loom so I've decided to develop a harness to make the VEMS as "plug and play" as possible and keep the additional wires into the engine bay to a minimum.
As there is almost nothing on the market for performance S/V40 parts I've always tried to make things as simple and effective as possible so I can easily replicate it or use my knowledge to help others. If my manifold is a success I'd like to make a few more and offer it to others that are in my position - likewise for the VEMS harness.
Anyway, I should really get back to work (the MD is just in the next office!) Hope you like the project and expect lots of questions coming from my direction!
Just one more pic -
(http://i274.photobucket.com/albums/jj259/tr1als/car/general/DSC00251.jpg)
Cheers, Andy P.
Nicely done sir :)
Those S40s are an awesome 'sleeper' you're not going to expect a car that looks as bling free (and thats a good thing) as that to put out that much power.
What engine is that derived from? Is it Volvo only or in other marques too?
The "B4xxx" 4 cylinder S/V40 engines are the same as the 5 cylinder engines fround in the larger 850 T5's etc but with the obvious difference. The 5 cylinder engines are the same as the straight 6 volvo engines which I believed was actually designed by porsche - again with a cylinder lopped off.
Other engines in the S40 range (lower power/spec) are a mix of Renault and Mitsubishi lumps.
The chassis is the same as the Evo 1,2,3, Galants, Proton Wira and a few others. A lot of the suspension parts are transferable. A friend of mine in Basingstoke is converting his 2.0n/a V40 estate into a 2.2 stroked Evo engine (500bhp / 500lbsft) with full AWD running gear!!! (yes I'm trying to convince him to go VEMS too)
The newer T5 lumps again are redesigns of the older T5 engines with many parts being transferable - These engines can be found in many other marques now because of the FMC ownership. It can be found in the new Focus ST, S-max etc and the Mazda 6. Theres probably many more.
Andy P :)
Did some work last night-
Rebuilding the head (collets can kiss my arse >:( )
(http://i274.photobucket.com/albums/jj259/tr1als/car/head/DSC00071.jpg)
(http://i274.photobucket.com/albums/jj259/tr1als/car/head/DSC00072.jpg)
(http://i274.photobucket.com/albums/jj259/tr1als/car/head/DSC00073.jpg)
And I bought some bargain track wheels off ebay. 17" OZ racing alloys with tyres off an Evo 3. In need of a bit of TLC but as track wheels a lick of paint will do. Ã,£83!!
Test fit -
(http://i274.photobucket.com/albums/jj259/tr1als/car/misc/DSC00070.jpg)
Need some spacers on the front to clear the calipers, 10mm should do it.
Not sure what colour to paint them, black looks stealthy but white looks "race"
(http://i274.photobucket.com/albums/jj259/tr1als/car/general/test.jpg)
Andy P
Quote from: Andy P on April 24, 2008, 08:38:41 AM
The chassis is the same as the Evo 1,2,3, Galants, Proton Wira and a few others. A lot of the suspension parts are transferable. A friend of mine in Basingstoke is converting his 2.0n/a V40 estate into a 2.2 stroked Evo engine (500bhp / 500lbsft) with full AWD running gear!!! (yes I'm trying to convince him to go VEMS too)
I love this modern "parts-bin" engineering - it presents so many oppotunities to mix and match the bits you want. I quite like the idea of an RWD S40 drift car ;D
Have you shown your friend khracing's Evo?
Quote from: [email protected] on April 24, 2008, 09:32:15 AM
I love this modern "parts-bin" engineering - it presents so many oppotunities to mix and match the bits you want. I quite like the idea of an RWD S40 drift car ;D
Have you shown your friend khracing's Evo?
Yeah, if it wasn't for that there would be virtually nothing for the S40 modification wise! My rear strut brace is off an Evo 3, I've got a proton wira lower "h-brace", track wheels are off an Evo and I've got some front poly bushes to increase castor from an FTO!
I've not shown him khr's Evo yet, I'll send him the link next time hes online :)
Andy P
What's the Quaiffe ATB diff off then?
Hah, you caught me out on that one. It's actually made for a Volvo! Originally for the 850 T5's but they use the same gearbox (M56) so it drops straight in :)
Andy P
Hello and welcome to this boards :).
This car is simply awesome, and once powered by VEMS it will be even better. :)
Another small update.
I'n my quest to make a plug and play harness I bought another S40 ecu with plug and about 30cm of loom attached.
I had to rip open the ecu to steal the socket from it - only 90 pins to desolder!
(http://i274.photobucket.com/albums/jj259/tr1als/car/VEMS/DSC00079.jpg)
At the moment it looks like this...
(http://i274.photobucket.com/albums/jj259/tr1als/car/VEMS/DSC00078.jpg)
On the hardware side of things, completed the port/polish/rebuild etc of the mechanical head. Took ages because some idiot mixed up all the valves and tappets ::) Measuring clearances are a pain in the arse...
(covered in clingfilm)
(http://i274.photobucket.com/albums/jj259/tr1als/car/head/DSC00080.jpg)
Andy P
Another update...
Continuing with the harness -
(http://i274.photobucket.com/albums/jj259/tr1als/car/VEMS/DSC00081.jpg)
And now splicing in the VEMS -
(http://i274.photobucket.com/albums/jj259/tr1als/car/VEMS/DSC00085.jpg)
And finally a pic of the cleaned block just after bolting the sump back on -
(http://i274.photobucket.com/albums/jj259/tr1als/car/engine/DSC00093.jpg)
Andy P
Looks good - I can't see for sure if you've got the common ground cluster 10-15cm from the VEMS plug though.
Its the collection of brown wires off to the LHS of the ECO36 plug. Its about 12-13cm long.
Andy P
Excellent, what sort of number of grounds do you have on the Volvo plug? I found with the Nissan that the grounds were grouped with the injectors, ignition, general power (things like relays and what have you) and sensor grounds. At least one wire has to go to each type because the earths seemed to be seperate in the loom (no ignition grounds = no ignition!)
There are 4 power grounds on the Volvo ecu. I was contemplating whether to group all my Vems and sensor grounds and then branch these off to the 4 Volvo grounds.
At the moment I've decided against doing this. It would make the install neater etc but I don't want to run the risk of any interferance/noise. Chances are it would work perfectly fine but its one less thing to worry about if there is a cock up along the line.
Andy
Stick with your original plan - you need to use the OEM grounds where ever possible
(http://www.vems.co.uk/VEMSUserManual/VEMSToFactoryGrounds.png)
Otherwise you end up potentially sharing the grounding path for the sensors, injectors and alternator all through the chassis.
Ok, in that case whats the best way to group all the vems power grounds and sensor grounds together and then have them split into 4 seperate cables?
Small update -
(http://i274.photobucket.com/albums/jj259/tr1als/car/engine/DSC00094.jpg)
(http://i274.photobucket.com/albums/jj259/tr1als/car/engine/DSC00095.jpg)
Head has been torqued down. Its looking more engine like every day :)
Andy
Quote from: Andy P on May 07, 2008, 11:22:34 AM
Ok, in that case whats the best way to group all the vems power grounds and sensor grounds together and then have them split into 4 seperate cables?
The best bet is to run the wires from the grounds on the vehicle loom to the common ground.
The engine is comming together very nicely.
I see..
I've got the problem of the battery being in the boot, grounded to a big seatbelt bolt in the back with a big power cable running to the engine bay. Engine is grounded to the chassis in the original place but grounding wires have been vastly upgraded (oem is one cable from the gearbox!) I'll be running thicker grounds coming from various locations on the engine and components to the chassis.
Tomi has told me he runs the same setup however his vems is grounded to the bolt on which his battery is grounded to in the back.
Andy
I hate grounds >:(
With the battery in the boot you have issues with voltage drop over the wires which gets worse with weak batteries and heat from cranking current. This means that you really only want one long wire in the circuit - the positive, and the ground should be connected near the battery to a significant part of the car's structure like the chassis rail, which will make the whole of the chassis the return for the negative.
Because you can get a larger voltage drop across the positive wire its a good idea to run a positive feed direct from the battery to the VEMS, via a relay, the seperate wire doesnt carry the cranking current and will provide a nice supply.
The contract that the VEMS has with the engine is to provide a ground path for the injectors, solenoids, sometimes the ignition, the wiring harness is made with this in mind, which is why I'm pushing for its use. Improving the standard grounds is never a bad bet, but it would be best done to a single point on the chassis or there is the danger of ground-loops - this is why those grounding kits work well and all terminate at the same point.
Rob
I hate electrics in general! Haha.
Yes, the battery is grounded to a solid part of the chassis with a short thick wire. The engine will be grounded with a kit comprising of 5 thick wires all grounded to the same point in the engine bay. Like you've suggested I'll run a seperate power from the battery via a relay.
Hopefully it shouldn't be too much longer before its all fitted in the car. Most things are done - just all the little odds and ends I've got to sort out. Only major thing is the exhaust manifold and downpipe!
Andy
A bit of progress with the engine -
(http://i274.photobucket.com/albums/jj259/tr1als/car/engine/DSC00152.jpg)
(http://i274.photobucket.com/albums/jj259/tr1als/car/engine/DSC00153.jpg)
(http://i274.photobucket.com/albums/jj259/tr1als/car/engine/DSC00154.jpg)
(http://i274.photobucket.com/albums/jj259/tr1als/car/engine/DSC00155.jpg)
(http://i274.photobucket.com/albums/jj259/tr1als/car/engine/DSC00159.jpg)
(http://i274.photobucket.com/albums/jj259/tr1als/car/engine/DSC00158.jpg)
(http://i274.photobucket.com/albums/jj259/tr1als/car/engine/DSC00157.jpg)
(http://i274.photobucket.com/albums/jj259/tr1als/car/engine/DSC00156.jpg)
Hoping to get the engine in over the weekend if I can get the manifold sorted out before hand, then its a short fire up on the OEM ecu to rule out hardware as a non running issue and then on with the VEMS and mapping!
Andy P
Ok, time for another update...
Got round to putting the engine in on a rather wet bank holiday monday. Didn't have access to an engine hoist so the engine had to go in the way I took it out (out the bottom) but this time it was complete with head so we had to jack the front up scarily high!
(http://i274.photobucket.com/albums/jj259/tr1als/car/fitting/DSC00173.jpg)
(http://i274.photobucket.com/albums/jj259/tr1als/car/fitting/DSC00174.jpg)
(http://i274.photobucket.com/albums/jj259/tr1als/car/fitting/DSC00175.jpg)
(http://i274.photobucket.com/albums/jj259/tr1als/car/fitting/Photo0017.jpg)
(http://i274.photobucket.com/albums/jj259/tr1als/car/fitting/Photo0018.jpg)
(http://i274.photobucket.com/albums/jj259/tr1als/car/fitting/Photo0019.jpg)
(http://i274.photobucket.com/albums/jj259/tr1als/car/fitting/Photo0020.jpg)
(http://i274.photobucket.com/albums/jj259/tr1als/car/fitting/Photo0021.jpg)
(http://i274.photobucket.com/albums/jj259/tr1als/car/fitting/Photo0022.jpg)
(http://i274.photobucket.com/albums/jj259/tr1als/car/fitting/Photo0023.jpg)
(http://i274.photobucket.com/albums/jj259/tr1als/car/fitting/Photo0024.jpg)
(http://i274.photobucket.com/albums/jj259/tr1als/car/fitting/Photo0025.jpg)
Unfortunately the manifold wasn't completed in time so the engine is in minus the turbo. Manifold has been tacked up ready for trial fit before it gets fully TIG'd up -
(http://i274.photobucket.com/albums/jj259/tr1als/car/manifold/Picture051-1.jpg)
(http://i274.photobucket.com/albums/jj259/tr1als/car/manifold/Picture054-1.jpg)
And the V-band flange my mate made for me -
(http://i274.photobucket.com/albums/jj259/tr1als/car/manifold/Picture050-1.jpg)
Finally got Vems powered up inside the car however I'm having trouble getting the laptop to communicate. I'm using a USB-> Com lead which is working (MT recognises a com port available) and when I connect it to VEMS I get the windows "bleep" that lets me know something has been connected however I'm getting "no response" from the ECU.
I spoke to Tomi and he had a similar problem with his because his VEMS was runing an outdated version of the firmware. Since he's updated to 73? he's not had a problem connecting. Just means I've got to borrow an older laptop with a com port to update.
Anyhow, heres my ecu harness -
(http://i274.photobucket.com/albums/jj259/tr1als/car/VEMS/DSC00177.jpg)
Cheers, Andy
Ok another small update...
The engine bay is getting there slowly, a bit more tidying required -
(http://i274.photobucket.com/albums/jj259/tr1als/car/engine/DSC00212.jpg)
(http://i274.photobucket.com/albums/jj259/tr1als/car/engine/DSC00216.jpg)
STILL no turbo fitted because of the manifold but its getting there! Its currently looking a bit like this...
(http://i274.photobucket.com/albums/jj259/tr1als/car/manifold/DSC00221.jpg)
Pretty much ready to be TIG'd up.
Inside the car I've mounted the LCD in the centre console, not the greatest pic but the only one I have at the moment -
(http://i274.photobucket.com/albums/jj259/tr1als/car/VEMS/DSC00186.jpg)
Andy
Ok, I've not updated this for a while but I've made plenty of progress!!
I got most of the bits in a while back and this is how it looked....
(http://i274.photobucket.com/albums/jj259/tr1als/car/engine/DSC00217.jpg)
(http://i274.photobucket.com/albums/jj259/tr1als/car/engine/DSC00216.jpg)
(http://i274.photobucket.com/albums/jj259/tr1als/car/engine/DSC00215.jpg)
(http://i274.photobucket.com/albums/jj259/tr1als/car/engine/DSC00214.jpg)
(http://i274.photobucket.com/albums/jj259/tr1als/car/engine/DSC00212.jpg)
You might notice theres no turbo fitted, that was because the manifold still wasnt finished, but....
(http://i274.photobucket.com/albums/jj259/tr1als/car/manifold/DSC00224.jpg)
(http://i274.photobucket.com/albums/jj259/tr1als/car/manifold/DSC00225.jpg)
It took LOADS of pissing about to get the bastard thing in, I dont think Volvo ever anticiapted people trying to squeeze in tubular manifolds and GT turbos between the block and bulkhead!
With everything plumbed in I had a go at starting it which posed plenty of other problems had to be sorted (5ft fountain of fuel to name just one!)
Tried turning it over but was getting a very odd ignition - sounded to be fireing with the exhaust valves open... Plenty of head scratching later I decided there must have been something wrong with the cam timing and took off the cam cover to investigate.
Turns out that the OEM timing marks were 120 degrees out!!! The pulleys are held on with 3 bolts and there are no locating dowels to prevent this happening. I didnt change them and assumed they were correct when i recieved them! All sorted now though :)
Finally last night at 11pm it fired up!!! Only for about 15-20 second though, no downpipe fitted so didn't want to annoy the neighbours. Sounds nice and smooth though and idles perfectly - a little low but I guess thats due to me cranking up the fuel pressure to eliminate an earlier problem.
Hopefully a video to follow!
(http://i274.photobucket.com/albums/jj259/tr1als/car/engine/DSC00238.jpg)
(http://i274.photobucket.com/albums/jj259/tr1als/car/engine/DSC00236.jpg)
Andy :D:D:D:D
Nothing particularly special...
(http://i274.photobucket.com/albums/jj259/tr1als/car/th_DSC00243.jpg) (http://s274.photobucket.com/albums/jj259/tr1als/car/?action=view¤t=DSC00243.flv)
Idle control isn't setup yet (or not working!) so currently its idling on the throttle screw..
Andy P
What do you mean nothing particularly special???
You've got your car running and idling on a stand-alone ecu.
Top work mate ;D
Yeah I guess so! Even though I'm cheating a little with the idle "control" haha. Hopefully I'll figure out exactly what the crack is with the controller. Hopefully its just a simple task! However going by previous "simple tasks" on this car I'll be at it all night :'(
Andy
I'm reading this thread while sitting in my car trying to get it to idle - with no idle controller.
Getting idle right is a long old process and because its temperature dependent can take months to get the range of cold start warm-ups sorted.
Calling all competant VEMS mappers in the Hampshire area! :D
The car has been on the roads for a few days now. Thankfully Tommi's map runs my car quite smoothly which has allowed me to use the car daily for work.
Now the challenge of tweeking and futher developing the map to suit my engine is leaving me a bit cold. Having very little mapping experiance I know all of the principles but I'm not too sure how to go about it - especially since it could always result in liquid spec pistons!
Any guidance to point me in the right direction is appreciated!
Andy
If your actual lambda the same as your lambda table?
ThatÃ,´s something you can do by yourself using logs and megalogview for instance or just have the misses drive it while you raise and lower fuel, when you have got fuel sorted take it to a dyno place and have them
adjust timing. DonÃ,´t just hand it over to anybody but somebody you know in your area or is well regarded.
I've just got back from 2 weeks in France - in the car!
Considering I had only done about 150-200 test miles before setting off, it wasn't all that bad really...well...kind of... lol.
I had fitted new tyres to the rear (ones i had on some spare wheels) and they went up from 205/40/17 to 215/45's so I expected some rubbing. I trimed off a load of inner arch before fitting them and clearance was fine however over bigger bumps I hadn't anticipated the wheel to move forwards aswell (following the radius of the trailing arm) which i hadn't trimmed so it scrubbed - quick fix was to lever the lip back out the way.
2nd day of travel the drivers side speaker was being intermittant so after a lunch stop i decided to quickly pull out the headunit and sort it out... After the slightest tug something strange happened - Vems LCD lit up...keys in hand...wtf! Shortly followed by billowing smoke from behind the dash..... Quickly ripped out the centre console to see a nice electrical fire melting various looms!!! Disconnected all power and put out the fires - I had an extinguisher on hand but thankfully didn't need to use it. Spent the next hour and a half sepearting lumps of rubber/plastic/bare copper wire and insulating them. Had a heart stopping moment when i powered up Vems to see the LCD displaying nothing :( Thought that was it... Then the Mrs noticed in my haste to rip out the console I had broken some of the LCD wires - Pluged in the laptop and powered up vems to see everything was in fact all ok!! Fired the car up first time :D
Next day I just went over all the nuts and bolts in the engine bay to find a few manifold bolts were only finger tight....
Next thing was the live feed to vems for some reason cutting out - cause was a bad battery connection.
A week later the powersteering was feeling notchy and belt was slipping - The PAS pump bracket had snapped off one end and was only just hanging on - not far off falling into the cambelt! Promptly removed and taken to a local garage to weld up using my fluent Fren-grish (english in a french accent). Ended up cracking again so resorted to bolting spanners to it to brace it up!
On the way home noticed a bit of a grinding noise coming from the pass front wheel when turing right. Thought it was just arch liner rubbing and "fixed" that. Turned out it was still doing it and I noticed a small score mark on the outer edge of the disc - a small stone in the caliper perhaps? I'll investigate the next morning. Next day I whip off the front wheel and caliper - no stone but the hub nut was loose!! Found a garage in the middle of nowhere called "Super Penus" that eventualy found a 36mm socket from the agricultural part of the garage - nothing in the car section big enough!
Finally the circlip holding the wastegate arm popped off resulting in no turbo and the vibrations eventually caused the Rod end to fall off on the motorway!!
So, rater uneventful trip!!!
On a better note I managed to get about 500 miles to a 60 litre tank (using 55 litres of that works out at 41mpg!!!)
Clocked the trip home from Pepignan to be 880miles - I had planned to clock the whole trip but several battery resets ended that plan. I guess I covered about 3000 miles in the 2 weeks.
Oh the holiday was good :D
Andy P
The definition of bravery is taking your Mrs' on a new-build's shakedown and calling it a holiday.
I have your EGT sensor olive here, drop me your address and it will be in the post.
Quote from: [email protected] on September 01, 2008, 05:52:29 PM
The definition of bravery is taking your Mrs' on a new-build's shakedown and calling it a holiday.
I have your EGT sensor olive here, drop me your address and it will be in the post.
Respect!
Ok, another small update to keep things ticking over...
Had these fitted before we went to france but thought I'd post up the (very crap) picture anyway. Subaru WRX front seats...
(http://i274.photobucket.com/albums/jj259/tr1als/car/misc/DSC00247.jpg)
Here's a pic of the offending PAS bracket....
(http://i274.photobucket.com/albums/jj259/tr1als/car/misc/DSC00260.jpg)
Finally got round to sticking on the VEMS sticker!
(http://i274.photobucket.com/albums/jj259/tr1als/car/misc/DSC00265.jpg)
And finally I had a little play with the ALS/Launch control..
(http://i274.photobucket.com/albums/jj259/tr1als/car/th_DSC00262.jpg) (http://s274.photobucket.com/albums/jj259/tr1als/car/?action=view¤t=DSC00262.flv)
Andy :)
Oh, thought I'd post a few pictures taken from the holiday...
The day before I left for holiday...
(http://i274.photobucket.com/albums/jj259/tr1als/car/general/DSC00249-1.jpg)
Was up until the early hours sanding and priming to get the car "complete" before we left.
Fixing the "melt down" :D
(http://i274.photobucket.com/albums/jj259/tr1als/car/general/S5800franceaug-08036.jpg)
(http://i274.photobucket.com/albums/jj259/tr1als/car/general/S5800franceaug-08042.jpg)
Random shots..
(http://i274.photobucket.com/albums/jj259/tr1als/car/general/S5800franceaug-08071.jpg)
(http://i274.photobucket.com/albums/jj259/tr1als/car/general/S5800franceaug-08072.jpg)
(http://i274.photobucket.com/albums/jj259/tr1als/car/general/S5800franceaug-08073.jpg)
(http://i274.photobucket.com/albums/jj259/tr1als/car/general/S5800franceaug-08074.jpg)
(http://i274.photobucket.com/albums/jj259/tr1als/car/general/S5800franceaug-08098.jpg)
Hope you like :)
Andy
Your front rotors are on backwards. :-\
(http://i274.photobucket.com/albums/jj259/tr1als/car/general/S5800franceaug-08072.jpg)
Quote from: BenFenner on September 15, 2008, 04:59:54 PM
Your front rotors are on backwards. :-\
Nope...
(http://www.racingbrake.com/v/vspfiles/images/direction_of_rotation_web.jpg)
(http://www.racingbrake.com/images/disc_rotation.jpg)
Yes from the outside it looks to be wrong but the inner vanes are correct :)
Andy P
Both directions are fine. This setup Andy has now is a bit more aggressive to the pads.