Hi newbie here, ive just placed an order for a vems system for my 97 200sx after spending a few years modifying it and getting
as much as i possibly could with various piggy-backs and fuel controllers, ive decided to go fully stand-alone management.
I should be ready to install the VEMS soon after christmas if all goes well,so you may see a few desperate HELP messages coming your way. from what ive seen so far on the forum its an endless font of knowledge, so all help will gratefully be recieved!
Regards,
Scott.
I've attached a few pics to browse. All the graphics and vinyls on the pics are now removed!
(http://i217.photobucket.com/albums/cc52/s14nismo/caratjapfest_000.jpg)
On the stand with TATSU at japfest (i had two track sesions)
(http://i217.photobucket.com/albums/cc52/s14nismo/Photo-0024_000.jpg)
(http://i217.photobucket.com/albums/cc52/s14nismo/Photo-0160_001.jpg)
(http://i217.photobucket.com/albums/cc52/s14nismo/Photo-0021_000.jpg)
Wow. Evil looking thing you have. Those wide arches fit well.
Hooray! The vems, loom adaptor, sensors and trigger wheel have all arrived so the project is officially Go! :)
(http://i217.photobucket.com/albums/cc52/s14nismo/HPNX0011.jpg)
My first Question (of many probably) is whats the thread size on the IAT sensor that came supplied with the unit?
(http://i217.photobucket.com/albums/cc52/s14nismo/HPNX0012.jpg)
Quote from: s14nismo on January 04, 2008, 06:40:51 PM
Hooray! The vems, loom adaptor, sensors and trigger wheel have all arrived so the project is officially Go! :)
My first Question (of many probably) is whats the thread size on the IAT sensor that came supplied with the unit?
M14x1.5
That wiring harness adapter is so nice. Mine looks awful comparatively. Who ever does those does some nice work. I'd have gotten one if there were one for my SR20 wiring harness. =/
The wheel arches look a bit mustang-ish, but what can you do? As Tcal said; they fit (and flow) very well. I can't say I like the wheels much, I'm glad the graphics are gone, I like the holes and mesh in the bumper for air, the rear wing could go (but as far as wings go, it looks to be a good one)...
Great to see another new member of the VEMS community.
Quote from: BenFenner on January 04, 2008, 08:02:16 PM
That wiring harness adapter is so nice. Mine looks awful comparatively. Who ever does those does some nice work. I'd have gotten one if there were one for my SR20 wiring harness. =/
;D If I'd had the pin-outs for sure I'd have made one. Its one of those things that 25years of soldering and wiring experience helps with.
Quote from: BenFenner on January 04, 2008, 08:02:16 PM
That wiring harness adapter is so nice. Mine looks awful comparatively. Who ever does those does some nice work. I'd have gotten one if there were one for my SR20 wiring harness. =/
The wheel arches look a bit mustang-ish, but what can you do? As Tcal said; they fit (and flow) very well. I can't say I like the wheels much, I'm glad the graphics are gone, I like the holes and mesh in the bumper for air, the rear wing could go (but as far as wings go, it looks to be a good one)...
Great to see another new member of the VEMS community.
Yeah the wiring harness was worth the money, it'd take me an age to do it myself, and im too impatient!
the wheel arches were formed out of function really, just to squeeze the 20" wheels in! (which were originally destined for a rolls royce silver shadow lowrider of all things, but never got underway!)
As the pic shows ive opted for the ready made loom adaptor, and after reading up on the wiki and the loom guide they stress the importance of grounding, im using basically the standard vehicle loom, so is this adequately grounded?
Or do i need to modify the grounding circuit?
Also my battery is now located in the boot with a 75sqmm power cable running to the original connection under the bonnet, ive currently just grounded the neg side of the battery to the chassis in the boot, should i run a cable to the original ground point?
Oh and whats this green twin core cable for?
(http://i217.photobucket.com/albums/cc52/s14nismo/HPNX0021.jpg)
Quote from: s14nismo on January 07, 2008, 04:21:41 PM
As the pic shows ive opted for the ready made loom adaptor, and after reading up on the wiki and the loom guide they stress the importance of grounding, im using basically the standard vehicle loom, so is this adequately grounded?
Or do i need to modify the grounding circuit?
Also my battery is now located in the boot with a 75sqmm power cable running to the original connection under the bonnet, ive currently just grounded the neg side of the battery to the chassis in the boot, should i run a cable to the original ground point?
Use the standard vehicle grounding with that adaptor, that guide is designed to give an overview for all sorts of looms.
As for the grounding with the rear battery make sure that you have a really good grounding point near the battery and dont use an additional wire or use a wire to extend the battery wire to the original grounding point. Doing both can end up with a ground loop which is a pain you dont want to have to cope with.
With a bad battery ground you'll see that there are problems when you crank the car - once the engine is running the circuit goes through the alternator, when cranking its through the battery.
Quote from: s14nismo on January 07, 2008, 04:21:41 PMOh and whats this green twin core cable for?
Thats a cable for an EGT sensor should you want to fit one.
Rob
I'm using the factory ECU grounds, and my battery is in my trunk. I don't trust it 100%, but so far I haven't had any grounding related problems, with the exception of my LCD operation (might be due to bad grounds, but not sure yet), and maybe my P.529 channels died because of poor grounding, but I think it was due to my own negligence connecting the ECU poorly at one point. I haven't felt the need to ground VEMS myself (yet).
Thanks peeps, I think im ready to install everything this weekend now ;)
Hi mate, dnb has just found that the loom adaptor for the European S14a has a slight problem - the power feed isnt correct so you'll not see the VEMS power up, all thats needed is a relay and two more wires, so if you want to send that adaptor back to me I can get it sorted for you sharpish.
Cheers
Rob
Ok rob will do, PM me with a return address and i'll send it out ASAP!
Thanks rob, im gonna run a cable direct to the battery to feed the relay, what size fuse should i use?
1Amp
As ive got a few days off ive got time to dedicate to the vems so quick update-
After a small issue of a self destructing relay in the ecu/loom adaptor :o i had to send off the unit to rob to be checked out as i couldnt get any communication with the vems :(
All was well so it just needed some changes in the device manager on the pc.
The IAT sensor was placed just behind the throttle body;
(http://i217.photobucket.com/albums/cc52/s14nismo/HPNX0029.jpg)
A tap off for the onboard MAP sensor was needed so 10mm polyurethane pipe was used;
(http://i217.photobucket.com/albums/cc52/s14nismo/HPNX0030.jpg)
And both were fed through the bulkhead by the shortest possible route with some electrical glands;
(http://i217.photobucket.com/albums/cc52/s14nismo/HPNX0031.jpg)
The tps is now calibrated and was going to set the crank trigger but after sitting unused for a couple weeks my battery hasnt got enough juice to keep vems alive while cranking! so im gonna charge the battery and start fresh tomorrow ;)
I've been talking with dnb as he's going through the crank trigger settings - if you find that your timing is miles out then its possible that the disk is round the wrong way. Its a 50/50 chance :D
Rob
yeah i noticed that when i put it in ;)
The way i put it in it looks to be roughly on the trigger at about 60deg BTDC. But I'll have to suck it and see ;D
I have a small problem, I connected Vems today to try and set the crank trigger and all the gauges on megatune came online (turned white) except the engine speed (rpm) gauge. so when i cranked the engine there was no rpm showing on the gauge.
Ive checked i have 12v on pin2 of the CAS plug and pin1 is grounded and with the plug disconnected from the CAS i have 4.7v on pin3 and 3.4v on pin4 is this correct?
Iv'e also checked the ecu/loom adaptor is pushed fully home and tightened,
anyone have any ideas why im not reading a trigger?
I know my SR20 would do that if I had the CAS signal wires connected backwards. Not sure if that's your problem though.
Also, I just took in the meaning of your title... GT32 running 27 psi!
DanMartin's S13 runs a GT30 with wastegate set at 8 psi, and immediate/steady boost creep up to 16 psi. It's a blast. I wish I could experience your kind of power though. =]
Someday soon I'm sure.
Right then. I've just fired up one we tested on a Nissan the other weekend.
On the CAS - Pin1 is GND, Pin 2 reads12v, Pin 3 reads 3.45v, Pin 4 reads 4.81
So thats pretty much the same result, and shows that you have continuity.
Lets isolate the trigger to see if its picking up a signal.
In MegaTune: Settings->Secondary trigger/ Cam Sync Settings change the value in TODO! should be 0x02 when disabled! from 25 to 2, then click on Burn to ECU and then Close
Try cranking again and report back.
Make sure that you're not pumping fuel while testing, at the moment the lack of crank signals mean that the fuel pump is not activated, once you get a signal you'll find the fuel pump will kick in.
I know you have already checked but make sure that the far edges of the connector are well seated, that bolt needs more tightening than you'd believe.
I hope this helps
Quote from: BenFenner on February 19, 2008, 05:50:38 PM
I know my SR20 would do that if I had the CAS signal wires connected backwards. Not sure if that's your problem though.
Also, I just took in the meaning of your title... GT32 running 27 psi!
DanMartin's S13 runs a GT30 with wastegate set at 8 psi, and immediate/steady boost creep up to 16 psi. It's a blast. I wish I could experience your kind of power though. =]
Someday soon I'm sure.
Thats what I was hoping to work out by disabling the Cam Sync.
I have CAS pin3 to VEMS EC36pin27 (Primary trigger) and CAS pin4 to VEMS EC36pin13 (Secondary trigger)
Quote from: [email protected] on February 19, 2008, 06:03:49 PM
Lets isolate the trigger to see if its picking up a signal.
In MegaTune: Settings->Secondary trigger/ Cam Sync Settings change the value in TODO! should be 0x02 when disabled! from 25 to 2, then click on Burn to ECU and then Close
Try cranking again and report back.
Make sure that you're not pumping fuel while testing, at the moment the lack of crank signals mean that the fuel pump is not activated, once you get a signal you'll find the fuel pump will kick in.
I know you have already checked but make sure that the far edges of the connector are well seated, that bolt needs more tightening than you'd believe.
I hope this helps
I'll try this tomorrow, otherwise my dinner will be in the dog! lol
Quote from: BenFenner on February 19, 2008, 05:50:38 PM
Also, I just took in the meaning of your title... GT32 running 27 psi!
DanMartin's S13 runs a GT30 with wastegate set at 8 psi, and immediate/steady boost creep up to 16 psi. It's a blast. I wish I could experience your kind of power though. =]
Someday soon I'm sure.
Yeah 27psi is my target with the vems, ive been running at 23psi on e-manage gold and managed 540hp high octane fuel!
im hoping for anything over 600hp ;D
Quote from: [email protected] on February 19, 2008, 06:03:49 PM
Right then. I've just fired up one we tested on a Nissan the other weekend.
On the CAS - Pin1 is GND, Pin 2 reads12v, Pin 3 reads 3.45v, Pin 4 reads 4.81
So thats pretty much the same result, and shows that you have continuity.
Lets isolate the trigger to see if its picking up a signal.
In MegaTune: Settings->Secondary trigger/ Cam Sync Settings change the value in TODO! should be 0x02 when disabled! from 25 to 2, then click on Burn to ECU and then Close
Try cranking again and report back.
Make sure that you're not pumping fuel while testing, at the moment the lack of crank signals mean that the fuel pump is not activated, once you get a signal you'll find the fuel pump will kick in.
I know you have already checked but make sure that the far edges of the connector are well seated, that bolt needs more tightening than you'd believe.
I hope this helps
Ok, ive tried the above but everything stayed the same, the engine speed gauge is still pink and not reading anything and the voltages on the cas plug are as they were before.
I notice your pin readings for pin 3&4 are the opposite way round to mine though, mine are (pin3,4.8v) and (pin4,3.41)?
Ah... this is a little embarassing...
I bet I've got the two wires around the wrong way (like Ben Fenner said had
happened with his)
You should be able swap pins between EC36pin13 and EC36pin27 easily enough. The
Econoseal pins are held in their slots by little catches that can be accessed
from the front of the plug. Take a look at the front of the plug and you'll see
that theres a gap at the top of the crimp, if you look down one of the unfilled
holes you'll see theres a tang that sticks down and locks into the back of the
crimp when its in place. If you slip a thin blade, or spike along the top of the
crimp you should feel the tang thats locking the crimp in place, if you lever it
up and pull the wire out at the same time it slips easily out.
The voltages on your CAS should then be the same as mine and you should be in
business.
You can get at the tangs from the front? I've been getting to them from behind with an extreme pair of needle-nosed pliers... No wonder it was so tough. I guess a straightened paper clip would do the trick then.
Edit: Disregard what I just said about getting at the tangs from behind. I was on crack when I said that, as this is impossible.
Quote from: BenFenner on February 20, 2008, 06:06:25 PM
You can get at the tangs from the front? I've been getting to them from behind with an extreme pair of needle-nosed pliers... No wonder it was so tough. I guess a straightened paper clip would do the trick then.
Yes i used a 2mm precision flat screwdriver, it worked a treat!
Right i swapped over the pins and tried cranking again, still no signal and the gauge is still pink, ???
So i tried disabling the cam sync again, cranked it over and still no signal at all, HOWEVER, as sooned as i STOPPED cranking
the IAC started furiously switching, the engine speed gauge came alive and started jumping around wildly (as did my cars rpm gauge) the "Trigger errors" started flashing at the bottom of the screen, all this went on for about 10 seconds then stopped!
Im confused!
I used a paper clip for a while, now I have a choice of a specially bent flat bladed screw driver the tip bends down and naturally lifts the plastic catch:
(http://www.vems.co.uk/VEMSTech/EconosealLatchCircled.JPG)
Circled is the latch that stops the crimp from reversing.
Or a straight spike that you lift the thing with.
Rob
Quote from: s14nismo on February 20, 2008, 06:41:27 PM
Quote from: BenFenner on February 20, 2008, 06:06:25 PM
You can get at the tangs from the front? I've been getting to them from behind with an extreme pair of needle-nosed pliers... No wonder it was so tough. I guess a straightened paper clip would do the trick then.
Yes i used a 2mm precision flat screwdriver, it worked a treat!
Right i swapped over the pins and tried cranking again, still no signal and the gauge is still pink, ???
So i tried disabling the cam sync again, cranked it over and still no signal at all, HOWEVER, as sooned as i STOPPED cranking
the IAC started furiously switching, the engine speed gauge came alive and started jumping around wildly (as did my cars rpm gauge) the "Trigger errors" started flashing at the bottom of the screen, all this went on for about 10 seconds then stopped!
Im confused!
Now I'm confused too... what is the battery voltage like when cranking? Jorgen said that the rear mounted battery caused such a voltage drop that the ECU couldn't cope, which is why we went to the direct power connection from the battery through the relay to the VEMS.
The bit at the end of cranking sounds like noise causing false triggers - which wouldnt happen if it were waiting for the cam sync which explains why it happens when the cam sync is disabled. But Hall isnt usually effected by noise in the same way that VR is.
Its strange because everything else is working fine from the sensors the tacho which the VEMS is driving.
Lets try and get the cranking speed up and lowering the voltage drop by removing the plugs and cranking it.
I'll dig out the info on trigger logging so that we can have a look at that.
Ive already removed the plugs and im using a booster battery out of my diesel vw connected to the main live on the relay box (where the original battery was connected) the voltage is only just dropping below 12v on cranking- about 11.8v, so there should be more than enough juice!
Ive also squeezed up the pins on the cas plug so its definately got good contact there. So is the engine speed gauge supposed to go live as soon as Vems is powered up, or does it just activate as soon as it reads a signal? ie, as soon as i start cranking?
Ive had an idea, if i remove the CAS unit from the head and use say, a rechargeable screwdriver to spin the CAS it should give me a signal without any chance of voltage problems or noise from the starter or alternator shouldn't it? :-\
And if this still didnt produce a signal then surely nothing would! lol
Or is this just a silly idea :D
Using a drill is a good idea, its the way I've tested the CAS before, the problem I've had is getting the shaft of the CAS into the jaws of the drill.
But before you do this, and risk buggering up your stock timing, try disconnecting everything on the harness - the 4 pin connector, the TPS, injectors and the ignition pack that should leave you with just the power, grounds, flyback, coolant sensor and the CAS in the circuit.
You've definately got the voltage sorted, we were getting an RB25 started with the voltage reading 8v on cranking.
The RPM will only show once the pattern is established (thats why I suggested disabling the sync so that any signal on the primary will start the RPM calculation), the fuel pump will prime as soon as any signal is seen.
If the worst comes to the worst I have an S14a adaptor thats sitting here (its for a wasted spark coil pack) and a VEMS that has just come off the aforementioned RB25 test which I can get out to you in so parts can be swapped out to find the guilty component. It still scares me that the relay blew when it was plugged in.
Ok thanks rob i'll try this tomorrow ;)
I've just found that the primary and secondary trigger signals were swapped on my S14a harness.
Once I changed them round on the EC36 plug, the triggers look like they're working properly.
(http://www.aqyz05.dsl.pipex.com/trigger.jpg)
Quote from: s14nismo on February 20, 2008, 06:41:27 PMas sooned as i STOPPED cranking
the IAC started furiously switching, the engine speed gauge came alive and started jumping around wildly (as did my cars rpm gauge) the "Trigger errors" started flashing at the bottom of the screen, all this went on for about 10 seconds then stopped!
Im confused!
Oh, the memories...
As for that IAC clicking, you need to place your IAC frequency to a multiple of 64 (0, 64, 128) to stop that clicking. 0 is probably best as to avoid confusion. A lot of us run 0 around here.
My tach likes to jump around occasionally too... Haven't found a solution to it yet. It will also stay high as long as the fuel pump is priming.
Trigger errors indeed.
We discussed this late into the night last night, if these tests don't prove successful then:
I'm going to make up an adaptor this evening that has purely the grounds, power, ECCS relay and trigger wires and send it to dnb so that he can test it on his working S14a installation, once thats tested and proven, he's going to post it to you so we can eliminate that part of the equation.
Quote from: BenFenner on February 21, 2008, 03:36:52 AM
Quote from: s14nismo on February 20, 2008, 06:41:27 PM
Oh, the memories...
As for that IAC clicking, you need to place your IAC frequency to a multiple of 64 (0, 64, 128) to stop that clicking. 0 is probably best as to avoid confusion. A lot of us run 0 around here.
My tach likes to jump around occasionally too... Haven't found a solution to it yet. It will also stay high as long as the fuel pump is priming.
Trigger errors indeed.
Thanks, this could prove usefull! :)
I once had a problem with the tach jumping around with my stock ecu, it turned out to a noisy alternator.
Noise is always going to be an ever present problem, it may be the cause of the problem we're having here... or it might not.
The VEMS wiki finally came back to life early this morning, and it has some information on trigger logs and the like:
http://www.vems.hu/wiki/index.php?page=InputTrigger%2FTriggerLog
To do this will mean you have to be comfortable using the Terminal program thats in the Tools directory of the software.
The com configuration for VEMS is - the com port, 8, None, 1
Type Man then hit return, you should see Hello>
then type mlp01 then return.
Then type mll and you should see the information in the Wheel error counter section.
Normally I dont suggest this to end users as its far from being friendly. If I can find the people who know, I will find the v3gui information for testing triggers which should cause less pain.
I tried disconnecting everything from the loom to isolate the trigger, pulled the cas from the head and span it with a drill, but it made no difference at all,
still no signal :'(
I stuck my DVM in the back of the CAS plug pins and turned the wheel and it seemed to be switching voltage ok on both the primary and secondary, so it seems the sensors themselves are working.
Quote from: [email protected] on February 21, 2008, 11:39:12 AM
Noise is always going to be an ever present problem, it may be the cause of the problem we're having here... or it might not.
The VEMS wiki finally came back to life early this morning, and it has some information on trigger logs and the like:
http://www.vems.hu/wiki/index.php?page=InputTrigger%2FTriggerLog
To do this will mean you have to be comfortable using the Terminal program thats in the Tools directory of the software.
The com configuration for VEMS is - the com port, 8, None, 1
Type Man then hit return, you should see Hello>
then type mlp01 then return.
Then type mll and you should see the information in the Wheel error counter section.
Normally I dont suggest this to end users as its far from being friendly. If I can find the people who know, I will find the v3gui information for testing triggers which should cause less pain.
I'll have a look at the terminal program, I had a quick read on the wiki, it makes things sound very complicated! ??? lol
This is curious, a couple of times now ive gone into secondary trigger/cam sync settings and the value" TODO! should be 0x02 when disabled!" has changed itself to a random number like 9 or 7!!!
Im wondering if any other settings have changed too?
Right then, I'll get that test adaptor made up and over to dnb who'll kindly (been roped into this) test the thing for us, and then send it on to you.
Changing secondary settings? Strange. Make sure that you set the value, then Burn to Ecu before closing.
Double check that its on 2 once you've done that
Quote from: [email protected] on February 21, 2008, 03:36:19 PM
Right then, I'll get that test adaptor made up and over to dnb who'll kindly (been roped into this) test the thing for us, and then send it on to you.
I really appreciate this, im doing a lot of head scratching at the moment! lol
So am I!
I have two cars at the moment that are not showing a cranking signal that tested fine on my test bench.
Amazingly bad luck...
Rob
The triggerlog thing is easier than it looks! It's fairly easy once your'e sat in the car doing the tests.
While I get a trigger signal waveform, I haven't made my 200 run yet. I expect it's the 50/50 TDC after trigger because I didn't get time to look at that today - I just hoped it would run ;)
I'm sure 127.5 isn't the right number for TDC after trigger...
How does 52.5 or 37.5 sound?
52.5 would be the better number... there will be a massive difference in timing if the disk is swapped round.
I had a brief look in the terminal program, Typed "Man,mlp01,mll" as you directed, the info that was displayed was;
RPM:0000 W00SFFI00
99 -00 c0000 i0000
clt:-40C adv:+10
0000 iac:000 135
If i clicked on the "graph" tab There was also a small graph similar to dnb's but shorter,
Quote from: dnb on February 21, 2008, 12:21:01 AM
(http://www.aqyz05.dsl.pipex.com/trigger.jpg)
but i didn't know how to copy it.
That's a good start.
If you type mll and keep hitting return as you crank the engine you should see a load of those info blocks come up.
I posted a VEMS fresh from a running RB25 and the test harness I made up to dnb today, it should hit his doorstep tomorrow morning and we'll get this thing sorted soon as we can.
I'll make sure I do the tests ASAP Rob.
BTW there's a command that does an automatic mll every 0.1 seconds. I find it very useful, although I can't remember what it is...
Quote from: dnb on February 22, 2008, 02:55:07 PM
BTW there's a command that does an automatic mll every 0.1 seconds. I find it very useful, although I can't remember what it is...
This would be usefull as hitting return didnt work, i physically had to type "mll" repeatedly (while cranking), and got this;
Terminal log file
Date: 22/02/2008 - 15:17:44
-----------------------------------------------
RPM:0000 W00SFFIE1
99 -00 c0000 i001F
clt:-40C adv:+10
0000 iac:000 135
RPM:0000 W00SB1IDD
64 -00 c0000 i0023
clt:-40C adv:+10
0000 iac:241 135
RPM:0000 W00S7FIDB
99 -00 c0000 i0025
clt:-40C adv:+10
0000 iac:241 135
RPM:0000 W00S80ID9
99 -00 c0000 i0027
clt:-40C adv:+10
0000 iac:241 135
-----------------------------------------------
Date: 22/02/2008 - 15:18:12
End log file
I just checked the wiki trigger log page and it says:
"Continuous sending of LCD data: mdk01 every 01 second: mdf01"
The number after W shows trigger errors - which shows 0, I'm waiting on confirmation of what S and I are
W00 SFF IE1 -> W 00, S 255, I 225
W00 SB1 IDD -> W 00, S 177, I 221
W00 S7F IDB -> W 00, S 127, I 219
W00 S80 ID9 -> W 00, S 128, I 217
After some valuable help from Rob and Dave (dnb) and a test VEMS+Harness,
I have managed to finish the trigger setting and the other calibrations,
So it was now time to connect everything and turn it over;
Hooray she fired up first time!!!!!
its very rough but definately firing on all 4 and will rev easily! Im really chuffed!
so now for the fun bit- tuning and mapping ;D
Thanks guys for all your help!
Scott
Excellent news.
If you're up for some experimentation you might like to try something that I was helping someone with yesterday with regards to start-up fuelling.
First we work out the req_fuel for your setup:
req_fuel = 6.49 * (D / N / I)
D engine displacement (cc)
N number of injectors (eg. 4 for a 4 cyl port injection)
I injector flowrate (cc/min)
Then in priming cranking afterstart for Cold cranking PW we use req_fuel x 3
and for Warm cranking PW use req_fuel x 0.7
And that seems to fire up a couple of cars quite nicely.
Ok rob i'll try this, its wildly overfuelling at the mo but i wont be able to get on it til later in the week, im working lates.
By the way, with the new VEMS both the coolant sensors are over reading by about 15degrees (with original VEMS they were pretty well spot on) is there a simple offset i need to change?
We'll need to do a tempsensor_upload.bat to get the correct calibration sorted out.
I'll bundle up the software and write-up some notes on how to do this.
Cool ;)
Thanks Rob.
glad its all up and running hope to have mine running soon too ;D
okay download this:
http://www.vems.co.uk/VEMSTech/VemsMT1.1.18Good.zip
And unzip it to somewhere useful.
You can use the instructions here.
http://www.vems.co.uk/forum/index.php?topic=122.0
By default these batchfiles use com1, this can be changed by editing the files and changing the -c com1 entry to the correct com port.
Sorry, Excuse my ignorance but The "command line in the VEMS root directory" is that the lower window in the terminal program? ???
No problem, its the command window in Windows terms, I'm showing my age (MS-DOS) and my geek credentials (UNIX) with talk of command lines...
I've modified a file to make this simple, download:
http://www.vems.co.uk/VEMSTech/tempsensor_upload2252.bat
Copy this into the top VEMS folder that contains all the other batch files like upload-firmware.bat
That should upload the correct sensor configuration
Quote from: [email protected] on March 13, 2008, 09:00:56 PM
No problem, its the command window in Windows terms, I'm showing my age (MS-DOS) and my geek credentials (UNIX) with talk of command lines...
Oh i see! :D
I found a handy tool (for XP) to quickly open command windows on a file (it just adds the option in the context menu options);
http://download.microsoft.com/download/whistler/Install/2/WXP/EN-US/CmdHerePowertoySetup.exe
I decided to flow test my 'new' injectors today, I foolishly tried to skimp and bought some Venoms from ebay, after reading a thread on the sx forum about the vendor i bought mine from, i thought i'd better test them before starting the mapping,
Here's the result;
(http://i217.photobucket.com/albums/cc52/s14nismo/DSC00013.jpg)
absolutely diabolically miss-matched!!!! :o
So be warned, steer clear of VENOM injectors, and particularly the ebay shop 'tlfsupra' !!! >:(
So im back to a measly 640cc max flow, so until i can afford a set of nismo or Sard injectors the boost is gonna have to stay 'sensible' :(
Just a little clip of the engine running and revving after some initial tuning (sorry but poor quality due to my crappy phone!)
(http://i217.photobucket.com/albums/cc52/s14nismo/th_MOV00006.jpg) (http://s217.photobucket.com/albums/cc52/s14nismo/?action=view¤t=MOV00006.flv)
Nicely done sir.
My SR20DE ran this weekend. The head is off now for a little work ;)
Rob
I managed to escape the house for a play with the SX today and took it for a quick spin without the wideband sensor fitted as Ive been
trying to communicate with terminal today to check my fresh air wideband readings and it seems to be connecting fine, but im just
getting some kind of encoded response, just a load of random symbols and numbers.
Ive had it talking normally before, so have i done something wrong?
Hmmm, not sure about that - cut and paste a bit if you can and I'll see if I can figure it out.
I fresh-air calibrated your sensor you know ;)
Rob
Quote from: [email protected] on March 30, 2008, 06:34:02 PM
Hmmm, not sure about that - cut and paste a bit if you can and I'll see if I can figure it out.
I fresh-air calibrated your sensor you know ;)
Rob
Yeah i just wanted to check for piece of mind really ;)
When i typed- Manmlp02, This is what it returned;
```PPPPPPPPP```ËÅ"ËÅ"ËÅ"ËÅ"ËÅ"ËÅ"ËÅ"ËÅ"ËÅ"`PpÃ...’Ã...’Ã...’Ã...’Ã...’Ã...’Ã...’Ã...’Ã...’``plllllllll``\ddddddddd``Xddddddddd:<T\\\\\\\\\:<PPPPPPPPPP:<HHHHHHHHHH:<@@@@@@@@@@000000000000(((((((((((( (2<FPZ_#-2<KZi}ââ,¬â€œÃ,°Ã,±Ã,±Ã,¸Ã,¸Ã,¸Ã,¸Ã,¸Ã,¸Ã,¸Ã,¸Ã,¸Ã,±Ã,±Ã,±Ã,¸Ã,¸Ã,¸Ã,¸Ã,¸Ã,¸Ã,¸Ã,¸Ã,¸Ã,±Ã,±Ã,±Ã,¸Ã,¸Ã,¸Ã,¸Ã,¸Ã,¸Ã,¸Ã,¸Ã,¸Ã,¸Ã,¶Ã,¶Ã,¶Ã,¶Ã,¶Ã,¶Ã,¶Ã,¶Ã,¶Ã,¶Ã,¶Ã,¶Ã,¶Ã,¬Ã,©Ã,£Ã,£Ã,£Ã,£Ã,£Ã,£Ã,£Ã,£Ã,¬Ã,¬Ã,£Ã,™™™™™™™™ââ,¬ËœÃ¢â,¬ËœÃ¢â,¬ËœÃ¢â,¬ËœÃ¢â,¬ËœÃ¢â,¬ËœÃ¢â,¬ËœÃ¢â,¬ËœÃ¢â,¬ËœÃ¢â,¬ËœÃ¢â,¬ËœÃ¢â,¬ËœÃ¢â,¬Å¡Ã¢â,¬Å¡Ã¢â,¬Å¡Ã¢â,¬Å¡Ã¢â,¬Å¡Ã¢â,¬Å¡Ã¢â,¬Å¡Ã¢â,¬Å¡Ã¢â,¬Å¡Ã¢â,¬Å¡Ã¢â,¬Å¡Ã¢â,¬Å¡Ã¢â,¬Å¡Ã¢â,¬Å¡Ã¢â,¬Å¡Ã¢â,¬Å¡Ã¢â,¬Å¡Ã¢â,¬Å¡Ã¢â,¬Å¡Ã¢â,¬Å¡Ã¢â,¬Å¡Ã¢â,¬Å¡Ã¢â,¬Å¡Ã¢â,¬Å¡Ã¢â,¬Å¡Ã¢â,¬Å¡Ã¢â,¬Å¡Ã¢â,¬Å¡Ã¢â,¬Å¡Ã¢â,¬Å¡Ã¢â,¬Å¡Ã¢â,¬Å¡Ã¢â,¬Å¡Ã¢â,¬Å¡Ã¢â,¬Å¡Ã¢â,¬Å¡Ã¢â,¬Å¡Ã¢â,¬Å¡Ã¢â,¬Å¡Ã¢â,¬Å¡Ã¢â,¬Å¡Ã¢â,¬Å¡Ã¢â,¬Å¡Ã¢â,¬Å¡Ã¢â,¬Å¡Ã¢â,¬Å¡Ã¢â,¬Å¡Ã¢â,¬Å¡wwwwwwwwwwww (2<FPZ_#-2<KZi}ââ,¬â€œ
??? ??? ??? ???
Maybe you use usb-rs232 adapter?
Yes im using a good quality USB-Serial adaptor, and i know its ok as its communicated before with terminal, and communication with MT is fine. it seems to understand my input as it only replies when i type a known command such as "man.. or hello".
Try reupload firmware, i have simular problem, after reuploding firmware all work good.
Please do not upload firmware when there is a problem with the serial communication.
I think I've replicated it.
If I connect to the VEMS with terminal and type mll I get a load of 'noise' on the terminal screen - like you pasted earlier.
If you type Man you get Hello> then you type mll and get a formatted output.
Basically the typing of Man puts the VEMS into console mode where you can send mxx commands. to exit the console mode you need to type byebye or reset the unit.
If you are in console mode, then disconnect Terminal and then open MegaTune you will not get a connection, but you will once the ECU is powered back up.
Does that make any sense?
Rob
And be sure that you type Man.
If you type man then vems does not want to communicate with you.
Quote from: Tcal on April 01, 2008, 01:26:32 PM
And be sure that you type Man.
If you type man then vems does not want to communicate with you.
lol :D :D :D :D :D :I guess i'll be a bit more carefull with my grammar in future!! ::)
its communicating perfectly now ;D
After getting the car running fairly smoothly im having trouble fine tuning the maps due to an unstable MAP pressure mainly at WOT and mid range RPMs, anybody got any suggestions how to smooth this out? im using the VEMS onboard MAP sensor (4bar).
Here's a screenshot of datalog, MAP is the blue line in the top graph, which is affecting my duty cycle (white line in middle graph)
(http://i217.photobucket.com/albums/cc52/s14nismo/datalog.jpg)
Nasty looking fluctations there. My first thought is regarding the boost controller setup. Can that be easily taken out of the picture? Disconnecting the power to the solenoid should result in none of the air being bled off which will mean that you have standard actuator control.
Are you using the PID or Alternate boost controller?
Rob
No the boost controller is disconnected so its just the actuator (set at just over 1bar :( at the mo, im using a norris designs hyper turbo setup, til i get some larger injectors).
Do you think a small choke in the actuator supply line would help a little, i know it would slow the response a little but im thinking it might buffer any charge resonation?
I can't say for sure, but you have a perfect way of measuring the effect of any changes you can make.
I wonder if its possible for you to smooth the VE table around the point where the MAP fluctuates the way that it currently does, the fluctuation will effect the PWs but not as significantly as we're seeing there.
The car is pretty well mapped now and as it was japfest last weekend it was a perfect opertunity to see how the setup performed under pressure and the results were fantastic, the motor never missed a beat and after 15 minutes of hard work it hardly broke a sweat! lol.
I wanted to datalog the whole session really but the scrutineers didnt like the idea of a laptop floating around the cabin! ;)
Here's a couple pics i found;
(http://i217.photobucket.com/albums/cc52/s14nismo/QH1O2112.jpg)
(http://i217.photobucket.com/albums/cc52/s14nismo/Japfest08Pt290.jpg)
(http://i217.photobucket.com/albums/cc52/s14nismo/QH1O1835.jpg)
Phwoar, that looks fanatastic.
Love the arches!
Big thumbs up matey
Yes, it does indeed look great,
On the pics, there is just missing one thing......
lots of smoke,from the rear tires ;D
/Skassa
lol,I havn't got the balls to drift ;D Thanks guys, its having a makeover over the next few weeks/months, i need to fix all the stonechips and car park dents etc,and thinking of doing a colour change, something like a subtle pearlescent cream-
Im open to suggestions though!