VEMS Community Forum

Hi all

I have bare VEMS board (without connectors), and have ordered some Ignition/injector drivers and wideband connector (i plan to buy wideband O2 sensor).
Got some Bosch Motronic M2.10.4 ECU and wiring loom from AR 155 1.8 TS 16V from which i will use ECU case, main connector, partially loom and other connectors. Plan is to use 60-2 crank wheel and some VW/Audi ignition coils and 395cc injectors which are too big but these are the goods i have already, and budget is thin as allways :)

Questions i need help on:
- how does above parts sounds ? Should i try with them or go for something else?
- what is a best way to pick up cam and crank triggers ?
- does anyone have dimensions/scheme of pickup point installations for these triggers ?
- what are the best grounding points for 4AGE ?

4AGE will stay N/A and with some 300' duration 9mm lift cams, forged HighComp pistons and custom made intake with ITB's I'm hoping for 170+ hp below 8000rpm.

Thanks! :)

p.s. project page:
http://www.vems.hu/wiki/index.php?page=MembersPage%2FUzelac

You can have problems with the 60-2 trigger setup unless its well proven,  I'd stick to 36-1 if possible.
Wasted spark works well on these engines, Bosch motorsport coil works well (Check the Alfa Twinspark coils, when I searched on the Bosch part number it seems that these coils are O.E. on TS engines...)
I shouldnt worry about cam triggers to start off with as these would need to be fabricated - I do have a plan for a cam trigger for my Honda B16B engine but I want to test it out before I recommend it.

60-2 trigger wheel is from Alfa Romeo 75 3.0 V6 12V engine.

This one:

(https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/-5Ffw3_R8n30/TabMBbAQMaI/AAAAAAAAFoE/XPiywE8PoTY/s400/image115b.jpg)

I plan to use gear alone. It suits me because its inner diameter can easily be mounted on 4AGE crank pulley, will look similar like that one from Alfa.

Can that be considered proven, it worked for years :).
I have original HALL trigger for it, plan to use that as well.

Thanks for help, really appriciate it.

Gave up with pgmfi? :)

It's not Alfa 75 3.0 12v trigger wheel, I'm currently Vemsing one 6c... It might be 24v. You can use it with any VR sensor you can get, and with big cams and injectors on small engine, you should consider using Alpha-N and fully sequential setup (cam sensor also needed). Old used looms and packing VEMS in OEM ECU boxes smells like you will make a lot of problems yourself. It's always better, easier and cheaper to make new harness, use new automotive grade wire.

Factory is generally pretty good - if you have a Hall sensor that definately works with that type of trigger, then use it, VR can do some horrible things in that two teeth gap that Hall will not.

Quote from: ignjat on April 14, 2011, 01:31:52 PM
Gave up with pgmfi? :)

It's not Alfa 75 3.0 12v trigger wheel, I'm currently Vemsing one 6c... It might be 24v. You can use it with any VR sensor you can get, and with big cams and injectors on small engine, you should consider using Alpha-N and fully sequential setup (cam sensor also needed). Old used looms and packing VEMS in OEM ECU boxes smells like you will make a lot of problems yourself. It's always better, easier and cheaper to make new harness, use new automotive grade wire.

Ufff, could be. Maybe it is from 155 2.5 V6 12V than. I'm certain it's from V6 Alfa, which model obviusly i'm not :D.

About loom, will consider making new on, after all that's not that nor complicated nor expensive. About box, really like looks and build quality of Bosch Motronic. Also, the save that comes with using Bosch case and connector :).

p.s. PGM-FI was great but when I added everything i need on PGM-FI in next version i came very near the price of VEMS. So.. time to move on :)

Quote from: [email protected] on April 14, 2011, 01:48:11 PM
Factory is generally pretty good - if you have a Hall sensor that definately works with that type of trigger, then use it, VR can do some horrible things in that two teeth gap that Hall will not.

I think 155 2.5 uses VR, but need someone who is sure to confirm. Just use sensor that worked on car together with trigger wheel. If you like look and build quality of motronic box, it would be nice to find pins for that connector, and crimp in new wires (Wurth maybe). I've seen a few very bad installs in oem boxes, and IMHO it's generally good idea to use Econoseal connectors from webshop. In that case, there's no 20 - 25 years old parts in your newest einspritz :)

I got pins and will be using them for connections.
Never mind the year, AE86 is almost 30 yrs old, so who cares about age :).

What about cam trigger ? Full sequent demands this, and i still don't have an idea how to solve this.

p.s. Alfa Romeo 75 Q4 and 164 used 60-2 on 3.0 V6 versions.

There is small hal sensor in webshop that can be very easy used almost everywhere. Tried it, and it works.

Bear in mind that the hall sensor in the webshop is really only any use for cam sync and low tooth count crank trigger.

Do you think it is possible to put it behind cam pully in which i can put M6 bolt or something that size?
Could something like that trigger cam for VEMS ?

I was thinking, rather than to make a hole in my cam pulley, I'd replace the washer behind the bolt on the inlet cam with something that looks like this:
(http://www.vems.co.uk/Triggers/CamTrigger.png)
I can then fit a hall sensor into the belt cover, it shouldn't take too long to do in a lathe.

That sounds greay but i don't see it fit on 4AGE head.
This is how it looks like:

(https://lh6.googleusercontent.com/_APKI3b0oh_A/TanMYN-8FbI/AAAAAAAAE3w/BHtGlKbejC8/s600/DSC06712.JPG)

(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/_APKI3b0oh_A/TanL_-rCcQI/AAAAAAAAE3s/LaDwemlIbw0/s600/DSC06706.JPG)

So low on space between pulleys and head. Maybe i can fit it on the outer side of pulley...

What do you thing about distributor adaption?

In standard 4AGE 16v distributor there are two wheels. One has 24 tooth, and one has 4. Non missing, and there are 2 sensors in it.
Could i have both crank and trigger sensors so close in one place ?
Can i grind two oposing tooths from 24toothed wheel and one tooth from 4toothed wheel and use existing sensors.
That should act as 12-1 wheel for crank sensor  Is that accurate enough ? Does it sound like problem ? :)

All links taken from http://www.aeu86.org/viewtopic/megasquirt-i-v3_0-and-toyota-distributor-igniter/t/8834

This is stock dizzy:
(http://www.aeu86.org/files/ds/dsc00657_medium_102.jpg)

And the guy grind off two tooths from 24 wheel and used it as crank sensor.

(http://www.aeu86.org/files/ds/dsc00661_medium_108.jpg)

He didn't use 4wheel but it sounds to me it would work ars cam sensor with one tooth missin. At least in theory :D

I believe these sensors are VR type. I'm not that into electronics, but i see people use converters for them to make signal digital. 4AGE igniter should work, but it wouldn't be to big problem to change these sensors for HALL type.

Quote from: uzelac on April 16, 2011, 06:46:06 PM
That sounds greay but i don't see it fit on 4AGE head.
This is how it looks like:

(https://lh6.googleusercontent.com/_APKI3b0oh_A/TanMYN-8FbI/AAAAAAAAE3w/BHtGlKbejC8/s600/DSC06712.JPG)

That thing I drew would sit where the washer under the bolt in the centre of the inlet wheel sits.
You could of course change one of those stainless allen key fasteners to a steel one and use that to trigger a hall sensor.

Is there enough difference in steel and stainless steel "magnetic capabilities" so HALL sensor will work OK ?

I'll answer myself :)
Yes, depending on type of stainless steel it can be almost non-magnetic. Great :)

Now i must decide which way to go, try to use distributor or go the distributorless route.

VEMS board in Bosch casing:

(https://lh6.googleusercontent.com/-TNkeG8YXhKA/TbAk5fxk6PI/AAAAAAAAFoE/d2LxN__lads/s244/21042011652.jpg) (https://lh6.googleusercontent.com/-TNkeG8YXhKA/TbAk5fxk6PI/AAAAAAAAFoE/d2LxN__lads/21042011652.jpg)

Assembled intake

(https://lh6.googleusercontent.com/-Kql3lxTOe5Q/Td1QcWUbHKI/AAAAAAAAFoE/_efjqcC_r30/s400/DSC07005.JPG)

Made trigger yesterday. Took standard 4AGE pulley, cuted the front part (which is used on cars with power steering and A/C) to 125mm from around 130mm, heated the AR wheel (ID 124,7mm) and let it cool.

Final product:

(https://lh6.googleusercontent.com/-imRTFhubfqo/TeilPwKaXmI/AAAAAAAAFoE/viVngMzMFrI/s400/IMG_20110603_093030.jpg)

(https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/-9anOh_h61qU/TeilVLvAW3I/AAAAAAAAFoE/UmRuHLgNiqs/s400/IMG_20110603_093017.jpg)

Hope i positioned two missing teeth in right place.
When engine is at GMT the mark on pulley is pointing up, 0'.
HALL sensor is at 90' clockwise and missing teeth are at 180'.

Sounds ok ?

(https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/-Yyb2lxxCjsA/Teila1BRc9I/AAAAAAAAFUM/inbMACsbKy4/s800/IMG_20110602_131946.jpg)

(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-y3sZgo5g8ZI/TeyKQMO237I/AAAAAAAAFYw/b3FWUr9teLY/s800/IMG_20110605_152455.jpg)

(https://lh6.googleusercontent.com/-lTLgWsju3Q4/TeyKTK4JRPI/AAAAAAAAFY0/G8Y33FRpXWo/s800/IMG_20110605_152450.jpg)

Quote from: uzelac on June 03, 2011, 10:43:14 AMHope i positioned two missing teeth in right place.
When engine is at GMT the mark on pulley is pointing up, 0'.
HALL sensor is at 90' clockwise and missing teeth are at 180'.

Sounds ok ?

Sounds good to go.  Make sure the trigger sensor mount is solid, should not vibrate much if hit with a wrench, nor be able to move/bend with your hand.

A starting point for your trigger settings would be to first pick "4 cyl 60-2" from the drop-down in the "primary trigger" dialog.
Then TDC will appear 30 teeth after the missing teeth pass by the sensor. That means :

First trigger tooth = 20  (20x6 = 120 degrees past missing teeth)
TDC after the trigger = 60  (10 teeth to go = 6x10 = 60 degrees more for TDC)

I'm sure my trigger wheel sensor mount is solid, 5-10mm thick steel bolted to engine block. It hardly even vibrates when i hit it with a hammer, did try to hammer it closer to wheel, ended up with putting washers since it wouldn't move :).

Btw. thanks for great info about trigger setup. Should be putting loom in next few days, so now is a great time to learn about all those various alpha-n or other options and mode of operation.
For now, i won't have cam trigger so we plan to use it in some batch mode, not full sequential.

(http://lh6.googleusercontent.com/-dW0jJiXpeDg/TgJ0qE7nxeI/AAAAAAAAFdE/iKsnuWfxPRI/s640/22062011004.jpg)

(http://lh4.googleusercontent.com/-yOGfIsayEak/TgJ0zK2d1xI/AAAAAAAAFdI/aNdkC2RHsNs/s640/22062011006.jpg)

If it vibrates (makes sound) when you hit it with hammer, it is not solid enough.
Once I had problem with resonance vibration on better designed mount - same thickness but shorter.

Huh, will hit it tommorow and see if it vibrates.
Planning to use some light paint like stuff and put it on tooths. When i hit sender with hammer, it if stays without paint, than i presume it's good to go :)

BMW coils, dizzy is there just to hold oil pouring from the head, will be removed at the end :)

(https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/-1MTDn-65oxA/Ti33u1hMnBI/AAAAAAAAFtA/hqsTd7rN6GQ/s800/IMG_0080.JPG)

(https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/-L3Y2zYghEac/Ti34Sw0IPfI/AAAAAAAAFtI/hh9sNKFBdUU/s800/IMG_0082.JPG)

Loom should be ready in few days... should :)

I've made one c20xe with similar setup like yours, but with VAG coils. What ITBs are those?

from bike, Suzuki Hayabusa.
Biggest i could find :)

Here comes the loom:

(https://lh6.googleusercontent.com/-4PV3mohLFps/Tj-OFmyA2mI/AAAAAAAAFvo/xneIMFTAunU/s600/07082011018.jpg)

It lives! :)

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=jyNiKnJjde4

your getting there.. good job.  ;D

Quote from: mattias on June 10, 2011, 11:21:59 AM
Sounds good to go.  Make sure the trigger sensor mount is solid, should not vibrate much if hit with a wrench, nor be able to move/bend with your hand.

So far it's solid.
I had problems with polarity of sensor, i had to exchange the wires. Looks like polarity for Motronic is VEMS is inverted. Maybe someone will have use of this info :)

well done

Not that solid after all :).

Car drives, but gets trigger errors in higher revs, 5000+.

What gap should i target, between sensor and wheel ?

ATM it is 1-2mm, haven't measured it really but in my opinion it should be smaller.
I cant imagine that it vibrates, it looks really rigid, but.. who knows :)

Next week is planed for all those small fixes, list is pretty long but i hope it will be done by the end of week.

Gap's not your problem. Search the forum and you'll find it :)

I used newest config, 1.96.
Is there something better ? Which one is recommended for alpha-n with crank trigger only?
Thinking to put MAP sensor after all. Since i plan 300 duration camshafts, not sure it is needed, or that it could help.

btw.
I have issues with idle and crank trigger, getting errors.
ITB's aren't synced, that will help with idle, hope to get it below 1000. ~1500rpm now.

Quote from: Ignitec on August 11, 2011, 11:07:21 PM
Gap's not your problem. Search the forum and you'll find it :)

Link ?

I got some various success regarding mapping.
As someone stated, bas map is pig rich, and so is my car, since i'm only at the begining.

ITB's weren't synchronized, and until i fixed that, i couldn't idle below 2000 rpm.
Now, idle is rough at 950pm, and pretty OK at 1100 rpm.
I'm running w/o MAP sensor, using only TPS and spark cut control which is enabled.

Before i dedicate more time to mapping, i would appreciate help where to begin.

This current state:

4AGE 16v bigport (bluetop) stock short block with exeption of Wiseco pistons (compression ~11:1).
Head is stock, no porting, stock cams (240') 

Injectors Lowz 295cc, coil on plugs, Bosch wideband, 60-2 trigger.
Only primary trigger, no secondary. IAT yes, no knock, no MAP sensor, no idle controling device stepper/motor/whatever..
TPS came with ITBs.

Intake is from Suzuki Hayabusa, ITB's, advertised as 4x52mm. I measured 49mm ID at mouth and 43mm at exit. Intake manifold is custom. (Too big, yeah i know :)).
Exhaust header is stock, has few leaks, intake is 2" ID with open/pass-through cans. No cat.

At the moment I'm using latest firmware 3.6 board and VemsTune with 1.1.96 config.
Alpha-N, wasted spark, EGO on, spark-cut idle.

I contacted Rob today and he helped with some info.
Suggested to use MAP sensor for barometric correction which
works well in the new firmware versions.

Gave links for two tuning guides written by Jorgen Karlsson:
http://www.vems.hu/wiki/index.php?page=TuningSession%2FOpenloopTuning
http://www.vems.hu/wiki/index.php?page=TuningSession%2FClosedloopTuning

Suggested change for kpa settings - (0,2,5,12,23,35,53,75,115,165,225,255) and lot of detail down at
small throttle openings and less further up.

This part i don't understand.
Since I'm using TPS, i presume i should USE RPM/TPS Fuel VE.
Defaut rows are:
1,5,10,14,16,17,20,23,27,39,63,71,78,82

If i translate what Rob said into TPS 0-100 scale i would get:
0, 1, 2, 5, 9, 14, 21, 29, 45, 65, 88, 100

It makes sense, can someone confirm this ?

Beside, I would really appreciate more beginners info, so I don't lose too much time at basics.

Thanks in advance
Regards

p.s. my current config is here:
http://www.4shared.com/file/5w-lJ3XT/start.html

I've spoken to Jorgen about this,  the TPS RPM table is correct, and he suggests:

0,1,3,7,10,18,25,36,48,59,74,90,94,99

For the TPS % scale

I think the key thing to bear in mind is that you will learn by trial and experimentation, there are lots of timing map examples for the 4A-GE around, so  you should be able to get an idea of what values you'll expect and the general "shape" of the map.

Great day today, finally hours of reading and mining through installation manuals and examples payed off :).

- calibrated battery
- installed wideband to better position (~35cm from head, where all 4 pipe merge)
- cleaned injectors
- made some ITBs synchronization progress.
- disabled fuelcut below 2300rpm, works from 2300-4000rpm.
- adjusted rows/columns, now they make more sense
- made OK base for ignition, copy/pasted some stock 4AGE data and adjusted it in regards what i used last year with different EFI/ITB's

Beside, I figured out VE tuning, very important :)

Car starts OK, afterstart and warmup works good, and when warm finally settles around 1000rpm. No spark/ignition control, no valves, pure TPS. Me very happy! :).
Injector pulse is ~1.7ms is that OK ?

I still have issues with short pressing of accelerator pedal, seems ITB's get stuck, so i need to blip throttle once more to settle them at 0.
Not so annoying, I'm used to bliping from last ITB's, they behaved same.

Fuelcut ON below 2000rpm was causing problems with slow/cruise driving. Most cruising is done at 1-5% TPS, and fuelcut is causing driveabilty issues, someone sad that is "transitions from negative to positive torque" is the reason.
Nevertheless, with fuel spraying always below 2300 cruising is much more enjoying, i could almost say that car now offers good city driveability, together with good idling.

Very happy i must say, thanks to many people that contributed on this forum :)

I played a little with VE values to get good lambda values but ran into "newest biggest problem".
It seems my O2 is not working that good. At low engine speeds, refresh rate is hmmm... slow ?
It seems there is some lag between vems and O2. That looks like this:
(https://lh6.googleusercontent.com/-8KO4Op4ud3w/TmvqPWPJzkI/AAAAAAAAF6E/wnMZL97muJw/s400/Capture.jpg) (https://lh6.googleusercontent.com/-8KO4Op4ud3w/TmvqPWPJzkI/AAAAAAAAF6E/wnMZL97muJw/Capture.jpg)

It behaves a little better with higher TPS and revs:
(https://lh6.googleusercontent.com/-8KO4Op4ud3w/TmvqPWPJzkI/AAAAAAAAF6E/wnMZL97muJw/s400/Capture.jpg) (https://lh6.googleusercontent.com/-8KO4Op4ud3w/TmvqPWPJzkI/AAAAAAAAF6E/wnMZL97muJw/Capture.jpg)

whole log:
https://docs.google.com/leaf?id=0B6eLVO1tr19nMWRmZjNhYTItN2Y1NS00MTRlLTg3YmQtNTNlMDY5NDdjMzZh&hl=en_US

It would be really great if i could get better info from o2, or am I wishing to much ? :)

Btw i still get trigger errors in higher rpms, will try to look into that tomorrow.
Everything is fine until 5000-6000rpm, after that, i get errors.
Sensor is soild, maybe i need some filtering ?

Thanks

Hi

Check the tps    signal its wary jumpy. Maybe twist the potentiometer a little and re calibrate it.

Make the VE table smooth so the values don´t rice with +40 % in neighbor cells.

Use Live VE analyser to help you setting up the Ve table.

Set up the lambda control and use it. Min â€" max to 15% rpm 500- 8000 rpm and keep an eye on the lambda when driving 

I will recommend that you re mount the trigger wheel, it´s not good to have 92 degrees in the tdc after the trigger but 60 is good and adjust with first trigger tooth.

/Peter     

Will try to smoth table, trying with both Live VE analyzer and statistics.
By lambda control you mean EGO? I tried not to let EGO mess up with VE until i get my VE table more accurate.

Regarding trigger wheel, so i should rotate it 32 degrees ? That's 5 teeth clokwise ?
Before that i will try to play with advanced trigger filtering.

Thanks for help.

Quote from: uzelac on August 10, 2011, 08:08:43 AM

Quote from: mattias on June 10, 2011, 11:21:59 AM
Sounds good to go.  Make sure the trigger sensor mount is solid, should not vibrate much if hit with a wrench, nor be able to move/bend with your hand.

So far it's solid.
I had problems with polarity of sensor, i had to exchange the wires. Looks like polarity for Motronic is VEMS is inverted. Maybe someone will have use of this info :)

If you have VR sensor [probably have, because Hall sensor do not give any signal with mixed wires] then you must set trigger edge to 'rising' and recheck your timing.
Have you self made trigger wheel? It is recommended to leave some material within missing gap if VR sensor used. Most of OE do so. E.g. http://www.msextra.com/doc/ms2extra/Ignition_Pixs/rx8trigger.jpg
It prevents from signal disturb.
VEMS do not like such self-made wheels at high rpms.
My first attempt would be to remove R55 from board (just for VR sensors). it helps in many cases.
Sadly but fact - close to 50% self made triggering solutions fails to work properly :(

Do not hesitate to use ego correction. It works pretty fast. and it is possible to drive even with hardly off VE table and make usable datalogs for further analysing.

Gints

I use HAL sensor, taken together with 60+2 wheel from stock Alfa Romeo 164, 3.0 V6 12V engine. It should be possible to make it work 100%.
Falling should be OK for HAL with 60+2. Not sure what mixed wires mean ?

Do you thing filtering can make some difference ?
Mount for sensor is really solid, but i will check it.

mix wires I meant = 'exchanging wires' from your post.

With Hall things becomes simpler. Falling is OK then.

Regarding filtering. It is very difficult blindly find right solutions for unclear reasons with no oscilloscope. Sound card O-scope is enough.

I just exchanged wires on VEMS, it's still shielded and nothing soldered on sensor/wires from sensor to ECU.
Will try to find O-scope if trigger logger doesn't help.

Few advancments in past weeks

I made gap between HAL and wheel smaller, now i don't get errors that often, only from time to time, not sure to what that is related. For 20 minutes everything works great, then i get trigger error.... still searching.
I cleaned injectors one  more time, played with FPR and VE table and car is idling almost great. It's between 1000 and 1050, not perfectly stable but OK.

Only issue i have with idle is when i start it cold, i must throttle it few times for revs to past 1500-2000. After that, most of the time, idle settles at ~1400 rpm which is value i set for cold start.
If i just crank it and it starts, i gets in 600-800 rpm zone, very rough idling and it can't raise revs on it self.
In that situation, if i just touch the throttle, engine shuts down.

Until i figure that out, i would like to  connect RPM signal to tachometer.
Stock rpm tachometer was fired off of the igniter output.

I understand the best solution is to use P259 ch 0 which already has pull up resistor? I just connect that to wire coming from tachometer and  configure tachometer in VT and set divider to 16?

Other option:
I have free wire going from pin6, that would be Inj.G ch 64. Can it be connected to RPM tachometer directly or need to put some pull up ? I see ppl talking about pull up, but I really don't know what that means :). Since I'm not really familiar with electronics, so don't know what pull up means, please explain what exactly needs to be connected to what. :)

Beside, I can use these not used inj. channels for some other stuff. For instance, i would like to have warning light or shift light?
If that's possible, will it work if i just trace wire from ch16 (for example) to the + of small LED or light bulb and configure output as Warning.

Thanks!

Pull up, anyone? :)

Here's more detail if you like: http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Pull_up_resistor

But in short, the p259 chip switches the output to ground. When it's not switched to ground (switch is open) what is the voltage level on the wire? You don't know. The pull-up fixes that. When the switch is open, the voltage on the line will be the same as the pull-up source (12v in the case of the p259 on-board pullups). When the chip switches to ground, the line is at 0v since there's no resistor between the wire and gnd when the switch is closed, but there is a resistor between the wire and 12v, so the direct path takes precedence.

To see if there is a pull-up on p259 ch 0 (there should be), just check the voltage on the wire when the engine isn't running. It should be 11-14v.

Thanks.
Now i understamd what it does, but still don't know how to wire it :).
If there is no pull up on channel, where to put resistor?
sorry, i'm real bad with electronics :/

Think i got it.
Connect wires from Vems output and tacho input and add extra wire on them goes to to resistor (1000 - 10 000 ohm) and ends on +12V.

Can someone confirm this ?
Thanks

Yes, that's how you do it.

Like Jason said, normally one of the P259 outputs already have a pull-up. Channel  0 is on pin 4.

I don't use standard case and connector, and have pulled some other wire/output already, the one that doesn't have pull up.
So i needed to know how to put it :)

Thanks all.

Nope, tacho wont move a bit with or without pull-up resistor.

Searching for a solution, i came up on info that stock tachometer needs much more than 12V.
Found info that it needs 36-40V since it's genuinely run directly from ignitor/dizzy.

So, on my way to make "tacho booster" : http://www.toymods.org.au/forums/tech-conversions/22574-how-tacho-booster.html#post1017046

Hope to make it tomorrow and post results, trackday is on Sunday, really could use working tacho :)

Use a free IGBT as output, connect one side of the solenoid of a common relay to it and the tacho, the other side of the solenoid to +12V. Done.
You might have to remove the mechanical part of the relay,  or it will make noises.. :)

While it's nice with a tachometer, a shift light is probably as useful for trackdays, depending on the performance of the car it can be pretty difficult to have time to check any gauge at all.

Unfortunately, i dont have free iGBT, i had one spare but had to use it when i burned one used for coil :/.
What voltage is coming from IGBT?

Lots of newbie questions, sry :)

The IGBT doesn't create any voltage, the solenoid does as the current is removed and the voltage is in the order of 100s of Volts, which is why you use an IGBT to drive it (it is designed for it) and this voltage is also necessary to trigger the tachometer in your case.

Will try, thanks.

btw ive managed to connect warning light to one of injector outputs, and it works as a shiftlight also, so thats covered :)

Quote from: uzelac on September 11, 2011, 11:00:28 PM
I use HAL sensor, taken together with 60+2 wheel from stock Alfa Romeo 164, 3.0 V6 12V engine. It should be possible to make it work 100%.
Falling should be OK for HAL with 60+2. Not sure what mixed wires mean ?

Do you thing filtering can make some difference ?
Mount for sensor is really solid, but i will check it.

That sensor from that engine is VR not hall....

? Are you sure?  I'm not :)

It looks like this:

(http://www.international-auto.com/images/originals/22757000w1.jpg)

has three wires and so far worked ok, sometimes perfect, sometimes with issues, seted up as hal sensor :).

from alfa 75 or 164 12v, if its 164 12v then its a VR, yes im sure  ;D

Third wire is just shield


(http://img9.imageshack.us/img9/3804/134264d1237594939164halx.jpg) (http://img9.imageshack.us/my.php?image=134264d1237594939164halx.jpg)
(http://img9.imageshack.us/img9/134264d1237594939164halx.jpg/1/w700.png) (http://g.imageshack.us/img9/134264d1237594939164halx.jpg/1/)

In the picture is a classic VR sensor.  You will be able to measure 100-1000 Ohms between two of the pins, the third pin will have no contact with the other two as it is the shield.

If it had been a Hall sensor you would have very larger or infinite resistance between all pins.

In addition, on the VR sensor you can easily measure the voltage swing going to neg/pos with a simple multimeter when you pass something made of steel past it (not stainless = not magnetic).

You are aware that the trigger input requires modification to accept each type? It will not work to use Hall sensor on a "type VR" input (no zero crossing).

That picture is from alfa 164 v6 12v manual, mine is VR and board is configured for VR.

Maybe he has something else?
I have 3 alfa v6 engines and they all have VR sensor.

I was talking about uzelacs picture, your's is of course VR as it should be.

It should be easy to figure out what uzelac has, like I mentioned about measuring it up.

Than, VR it is :).

Will configure it as rising and see how it goes.

Btw. trackday went fine, no issues, everything worked ok in mine two 25minute sessions. With sensor on falling!
Even though, very satisfied :)

If someone is interested how it sounds(mostly)/looks:

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=H8OUglwsrl4

Hey Dude, Usually run Phatbobs diode setup to get RPM working. Serach the site and youll find the schematic. Im sure vems can drive it but never done it.

Will try that also :)

I took the cluster out of car, will try to figure what it needs now with some electronic testing equipment available at friends work.

ig- clearly marked on back of cluster if your only trying to get the rpm working the diode trick works fine done it a million times :-)

Diode from coil ?
Will it work on COP setup configured as wasted. Each cylinder has it's own coil on plug and is fired twice in a 4-stroke cycle.

Wasted spark COP then?  In which case connect one diode to cyl 3 the other to cyl 4, connect the two to the cathode (-) striped end of an 18V Zener and you'll have the RPM signal you need.

Should this work:

2x DIODE 300V 1A - SF15 GLX
   (300V 1A UFM1.25V/1A IFM30A IR5uA 35nS, S)
1x DIODE ZENER 18V 1.3W - 1N4746/BZX85C18 MBR
   (18V 1.3W 5%)

Diodes connected to COP 3 & 4 ground, other end wired together to cathode of zener and into the tachometer ?

Thanks
p.s. extremely sorry for being such a noob.

   

Never apologise for being noob.

I just tend to repeat steps, often repeating what other ppl just said. To be sure I understood others correctly, and that they understand me.

So, what do you say, should these parts work, ok specs ? :)

The Zener looks fine, although the diodes I've used are the 1N4007 ones that come in the "rescue" pack that they send out in the little plastic bag.

Not sure where the rescue kit is, so will have to buy new one :/
Here is what's avaliable at local supplier:

product name description Producer
1N4007 T/R 1000V 1A UFM1.1V/1A IFM30A IR5uA DCC
1N4007 GLX 1000V 1A UFM1.1V/1A IFM30A IR5uA GLX
1N4007G GLX 1000V 1A UFM1.1V/1A IFM30A IR5uA, Glass GLX


Looks to me, anyone will do the job. Am i correct ?

Yes for some reason I'd go for the non-glass ones...

(https://lh6.googleusercontent.com/-yh_MMPlNN4g/TqlfS4oR0_I/AAAAAAAAGC8/V1RVz778Gl0/s640/IMAG0033.jpg)

Trying tonight :)

Just to check "connect the two (diodes) to the cathode (-) striped end of an 18V Zener"

Quote from: [email protected] on October 27, 2011, 02:47:17 PM
Just to check "connect the two (diodes) to the cathode (-) striped end of an 18V Zener"

Argh :)
Friend who "knows things" assured me it will work this way.

Will make opposite version also :)

Thanks

Done.

Tested on voltmeter, anything below 18V is not passing, and the difference above 18V is flowing, so when i tested with 30V i got ~12V after zener.
Hope it works tonight.

Muchos gracias :)

Nop, couldn't make it work. But we succeed to short circuit one COP, +12 to common ground so have some burned wires.
Just hope VEMS and all IGBT's are OK.

Will see where are we tomorrow, hope to be more lucky :)

Is it for tach driving?

Just as alternative. My way to drive old tachs is use relay coil as fake ignition coil. Tach output configured to one of I259 outputs with IGBT. And relay coil (just coil, other mechanical parts thrown out for keeping this thing quiet) connected between IGN+ and this output. Output goes to tach. This makes high enough voltage spike for old tachs. Be careful: cut any resistors or diodes out of relay - these elements are for spike eliminating - we do not need it in this case.
It results a bit simpler/cleaner install than with diodes.

Gints

It's great to see many different options :)
Unfortunately, I don't have spare iGBT, so can't try this one.
Today I will try with the diode trick again, just need to revive wires to coils.

You need to use the Zener to clamp the voltage to ~18v:
(http://www.vems.co.uk/VEMSUserManual/TachoDiodes.png)
With the stripe of the Zener towards the other diodes.
What you've done is not clamp the voltage, and may have damaged the tacho.

I did it just the way pictured here, resoldered it when you noticed the Zener is reversed.
Now it is like here. Part numbers are different, but shouldn't make a difference?!

What does clamp voltage means ?
As i said, nothing above 18V passes, and above that voltage starts to flow.
If i test put 30V on coil 1 or 2, i get ~12V at Tacho . Makes sense to me, although still not sure WHY that should work with tacho :)

I use BMW Bosch COPs, they look like this:
(http://images.wrenchead.com/smartpages/partinfo_resize/BOR/e566.jpg)

Three wires:
+12V / ground / Coil -

I tried to connect two diodes "input" to Coil- but a friend "figured" a way to shortcuircit Pin1 and Pin2 (12V and ground) .... I hope i got just blown fuse, not blown COP or even worse IGBT or something in VEMS.

Personally I would keep friends away from your engine, unless they are prepared to pay for the mistakes they're making while learning...
The tacho is expecting a signal from the coil as it discharges, the zener is there to clamp the voltage lower than the HT spike that will be kicked out when the coil sparks.
Without the zener clamping the voltage you may find that theres a small wire transmitting HT voltages to the back of your tacho - that would be a bad idea.

Rob

Found blown fuse, hope that's all. Took the loom of the car to add all needed stuff and tidy it up a bit.

While it is out i want to install MAP sensor for barometric corrections. ECU usually sits on the inside firewall. Should i put it in the case, somewhere near or in engine bay. I presume first option is best, just need to confirm it.
Plan to pull wires for Warning light, Shift light, one from 259ch0 just in case... stuff like that. Hope not to burn anything, and that engine will run when i return all that :)

Revised wiring, much better positioning in engine bay. Wired diodes and some extra features, but still haven't try to use them.
Was extra careful, think i did all the cutting, soldering ... OK.
Still, had some suspicious behavior.

- Everything started OK, PC found and connected to VEMS, engine started OK.
- Few minutes in warmup engine just died.
- From that moment, touch pad on PC is showing awkward behavior, jerky motion and random clicking. Completely unusable. Keyboard working OK, VEMS and other applications starting/running/closing perfectly. Shutdown PC.
- Started engine without a problem, it worked for few more minutes and shutdown regularly.
- Confused, gone home.

PC works great now, no problems, seems like something from USB Serial adapter/VEMS or VEMSTune is messing up notebook while connected
Did anyone had similar problems? Some hint, what could a be problem ?

It can be relevant to say that i had some problems with USB-Serial adapter currently at use. It has some FTDI chip and in past it had issues with random disconnecting, for example while cranking or while testing coils-on-plugs.
Haven't got those issues while using other cable with Prolific PL2303 chip but that cable doesn't work with few netbooks i have so i prefer FTDI.
Prolific (that cable is made/sold by Conrad Eletronics, yellow one) works only with classic notebooks.
I came to conclusion that those netbooks have lower powered USB ports and they work only with FTDI cable, could be, not sure.
Prolific on the other hand when works, shows no issues, works without a problem, but need full notebook to work.

I suppose i could try with Prolific cable, maybe there won't be any problems, but now I'm not sure if my loom is OK.
Did anyone had problems with touchpad ?!?! Could that "messing up of PC" be related to some other problem, with loom/VEMS?

It would be great if FTDI is the problem, and everything works great next time with Prolific. But, I'm just not sure, should i even try. What's even more confusing is that VEMS and engine works great. Also, all sensors seem to work OK.

Could use some help, again :/.
Thanks.

p.s. really appreciate even if someone even read post this long :)

Does engine dies only with PC connected?
I note engine cut for particle of second when VT start-ups/connects  to units with 1.1.97. Never saw this before! I have FTDI too. VT from September IIRC.

Engine worked OK after PC disconnected, worked for a few minutes until i turned everything off.
Didn't want to connect PC after.

Will take VEMS and loom for a check tonight, want to go through all the grounds, maybe even replace them.

p.s. notebook works fine today

Quote from: GintsK on October 31, 2011, 02:26:16 PM
I note engine cut for particle of second when VT start-ups/connects  to units with 1.1.97. Never saw this before! I have FTDI too. VT from September IIRC.

BTW I have same issue, not every start, and I use 1.1.96.

Do you run notebook on batteries? Or?
External supply devices sometimes may create ground loops. It leads current flow through USB adapter. And this potentially can create problems like you have.

As I tune different cars quite often I decided to buy optoisolated USB->serial adapter per Rob suggestion. Otherwise time to time my adapters fries. Two times I had even MAX232 chip failure inside VEMS.

Gints

Always batteries, all work done outside, no garage unfortunately.
What scares me, I had no such problems till yesterday, and then it happens the day I've done some "loom optimizations". Hmm..
Better safe than sorry, will check grounds tonight, maybe even redone them.

Quote from: GintsK on October 31, 2011, 02:26:16 PM
Does engine dies only with PC connected?
I note engine cut for particle of second when VT start-ups/connects  to units with 1.1.97. Never saw this before! I have FTDI too. VT from September IIRC.

I have same situation, 1.1.96 and 1.1.92 ECU's. Let's say i drive the car on the highway and VEMS is connecting, the engine sputters for millisecond and thats it. Except for that, i have no issues. I think it's normal ...

Quote from: stroft on November 01, 2011, 11:14:24 AM

Quote from: GintsK on October 31, 2011, 02:26:16 PM
Does engine dies only with PC connected?
I note engine cut for particle of second when VT start-ups/connects  to units with 1.1.97. Never saw this before! I have FTDI too. VT from September IIRC.

I have same situation, 1.1.96 and 1.1.92 ECU's. Let's say i drive the car on the highway and VEMS is connecting, the engine sputters for millisecond and thats it. Except for that, i have no issues. I think it's normal ...

It was not so before! For me it appers at time when VT counts pages.

On hold until i solve these issues:

http://www.vemssupport.com/forum/index.php/topic,1844.0.html

It looks like i solved the problem, if there was some at all. Rewired everything and it works like a charm.
Even at temperature below zero engine fired without a glitch. Very happy! :)

Back to connecting tachometer output, will try both options, "2+1 diodes" and "tacho booster" with dismantled relay and let you know which works.

Temperatures droped heavily in past few weeks, and now daily is around zero, from -5 to +5.
Engine worked like a charm while outside temperature was 20-40 degrees C, but pressure and temperature are way different in winter.
I don't have MAP sensor and I'm not sure about MAT/TPS IGN and VE corrections, so wonder, can i expect any issues ?
How important is MAP sensor used for barometric correction, how big difference can it make?
How good are standard corrections for VE and IGN ?

Thanks

Cold start is a big issue as temp drops below zero.
MAP is relatively important, but many cars run with plain AlphaN without barometric correction, you do after all have wideband feedback which will ensure that fuelling is pretty close to spot on except all but high RPMs

Praxis agree :).
Tried to drive a bit today, and expect for small problems with keeping warmup phase on some CLT temperatures, pretty much all worked fine. To my suprise, cranking works perfect, afterstart also. Warmup... it's obvius i need better CLT calibration and Warmup enrichment curve.

MAP sensor is still on ToDo list, but it looks there is no reason to hurry, 4AGE worked just fine in -5 degrees today.

Regarding, wideband, it's not working OK while idleing.
It shows AFR 20+ while engine idles.
With minor bliping of throttle lambda heads to <1 range.
As TPS returns to 0-1% lambda goes beyond 1.29.

Still, exhaust smells rich, not pig rich but definetly rich.

You may be way past the point where the wideband reads correctly - can you get the idle to around 0.95?  It should idle cleanly at that.
What sort of PWs are you seeing at idle?

Quote from: uzelac on November 20, 2011, 01:11:14 AM
How important is MAP sensor used for barometric correction, how big difference can it make?

Not important at all unless you drive up a mountain often and are non-turbo.

The ECU reads the MAP sensor to get the barometric pressure before the engine cranks. That way a dedicated barometric sensor isn't needed. Unless the pressure (altitude) changes drastically (100's of meters) it's going to be just fine.

Barometric correction is used only once before crank ? And not while engine is running ?
Seems like wideband alone will have to be enough :).

I can't get idle at 0.95, if i add fuel engine revs up. Maybe i have too much air going through my intake...
IGN is set to 15, stock 4AGE idles around 16.

BTW. I don't use any Idle control.

You have too much air, and you're leaning out the fuel to get the thing to idle - I bet it sounds a rough as hell on idle.
Put more fuel in let the revs rise up to 2000-2500rpm, close down the throttle plates so that the engine speed is closer to idle, then repeat this process until the warm engine is idling at the right speed with lambda close to 1.0
This will probably result in you having poor starting behaviour, but that can be tuned out easily enough.
Getting some form of IACV in there is never a bad idea...

Sounds great, will give it a try but not sure if it can be done.
My ITB's are pretty much closed... i guess it's time to check for leaks in intake.
And IACV.... i don't really need that good idle, this ain't daily driver, maybe when more important things are sold. As MAP and VSS...

yes - you need a leak free intake.

BTW.

I constantly get validation errors on loading config:
It says:

Following symbols have invalid values
H2D7
H2D6
H2D5
H2D4

In earlier versions it looked the same except VemsTune directed me to:
Base Setup: Ignition Outputs dual.

Now i get only "invalid values".
I guess these are leftovers from some earlier VemsTune versions conflicting with  mine 4x COP/Wasted spark/DualOutput.

Can i fix it in config somewhere or is it an issue with VemsTune? I use most recent VT.

Here is my config:
https://docs.google.com/open?id=0B6eLVO1tr19nYzRmYmEyNWEtNWU1Yy00OWY2LWFjMWMtNjNmYTk4YzZhOGQ3

It is pretty easy to solve: temporary configure 8 ignition outputs and then edit four invalid ones to any other outputs. Then go back to 4 outputs.

Gints

Quote from: [email protected] on November 20, 2011, 06:44:35 PM
What sort of PWs are you seeing at idle?

Around 2.7msec.
250cc injectors LowZ (now with TS diode).

What is a better option for a IACV, that default is closed or partially open ?
I found some Bosch IACV, it's open by default.

How will it work with VEMS default settings ? Is setting up an IACV pain in the ass or should be pretty simple ?

Thanks

Difficulty levels depend on your throttle bodies - stock bodies have a nice joint air feed for the IACV.

Installation shouldn't be a problem. Drilling nipples is easy, what bothers me is setting up :).

I think the late Rover Mini that had EFI used a solenoid to open the butterfly, if this is a thought...
Most if not all IACVs fail open - if they failed closed then people would have problems starting their cars, as it fails open they'll notice a high idle RPM.
Fitting BOSCH parts has never been a bad idea.

Btw.

found the leak in intake, of course :).
Intake manifold is going to be flattened at the shop, after that i hope there won't be more problems with idle.
Maybe even WBO2 will show ~1 lambra at idle :)

Got rid of the leaks but i can't achive good lambda at idle.
It's either these ITB's can't close enough, or i have problems with WBO position or sensor itself.
It works fine while running, but at idle it goes above 1.29 :/

Will try to setup tacho output via I259/Ignition output.
Does that iGBT need heatsink ?

Quote from: GintsK on October 28, 2011, 10:20:13 AM
Is it for tach driving?

Just as alternative. My way to drive old tachs is use relay coil as fake ignition coil. Tach output configured to one of I259 outputs with IGBT. And relay coil (just coil, other mechanical parts thrown out for keeping this thing quiet) connected between IGN+ and this output. Output goes to tach. This makes high enough voltage spike for old tachs. Be careful: cut any resistors or diodes out of relay - these elements are for spike eliminating - we do not need it in this case.
It results a bit simpler/cleaner install than with diodes.

Will try this way:
I choose 5 ignition outputs in Ignition settings. Ignition Outputs Visual page than looks like this:

(https://lh6.googleusercontent.com/-axlhReQHnlE/TvNbqO-aoSI/AAAAAAAAGmY/QsfCkPAOXxE/s800/Untitled.jpg)

I have iGBT's on pins EC36-33 and EC36-35
I'm using Wasted Spark so "Dual Output mode" is Enabled and VemsTune offers combination of two outputs.
I wanna connect Tacho via reley to EC36-33.

The question is what combination to pick ?
EC36-33 and nonexisting iGBT output like EC36-36 or go with both left iGBT's on pins 33 and 35?

Not sure how VT works with Tacho Output configured as I259 when Ignition is in Dual Output mode, and will something go bad.

Thanks

Quote from: uzelac on December 22, 2011, 04:42:57 PMThe question is what combination to pick ?
EC36-33 and nonexisting iGBT output like EC36-36 or go with both left iGBT's on pins 33 and 35?

Not sure how VT works with Tacho Output configured as I259 when Ignition is in Dual Output mode, and will something go bad

None of what you wrote is how you do it. Go to "assign all outputs" dialog and choose the  I259-33 for the "tacho out" feature.

The tacho function and it's selected output has nothing to do with neither of : the ignition output table, dual out enabled or not, coilpack/distributor or other ignition method, number of cylinders, ...
As others pointed out: which output you pick has to do with what your tacho requires to pick up a signal. Using -33 and a relay coil works really well with old tachs that require flyback voltage.

Hi, nice project
Tacho you had a coil+ignitor use p259 -chan 0 with pullup
At the back of the Tacho should be a turnable resistor turn it untill Tacho starts working

Idle seems like you highly modified engine try retarding your ignition advance,
dont mind the reading of wbo2, first try to get a stable reading.

Hi

Digital AE86 cluster is in car, so can't look but neither one of two analog i have out of the car there is no turnable resistors. Maybe if i open the cluster, somewhere inside ?
Just checked pictures online, there is nothing to turn on digital either:

(http://i265.photobucket.com/albums/ii207/Shonuffisdamasta/Trueno%20Project/DSC03062.jpg)

Quote from: mattias on December 22, 2011, 06:59:03 PM

None of what you wrote is how you do it. Go to "assign all outputs" dialog and choose the  I259-33 for the "tacho out" feature.

The tacho function and it's selected output has nothing to do with neither of : the ignition output table, dual out enabled or not, coilpack/distributor or other ignition method, number of cylinders, ...

I got confused because i had to add injector output and channel at Injector output visuals to run warning light over.
Obviously it's different with I259 outputs.

Thanks, will try tommorow.

p.s. There is a third way, to modify tachometer itself, hope I wouldn't need it an this relay thing works :)
http://members.iinet.net.au/~awcabren/ae86gzetacho.pdf

http://www.toymods.org.au/forums/tech-conversions/63537-using-ae86-tachometer-aftermarket-ecu-12v-output-2.html

You have to take it apart, and take the Tacho cluster with circuit board out loads of info at the toyo forum    ;D

Ha, i got that, you'll see my post at the end from yesterday.
Still nothing turnable, soldering will have to do :)

Thanks

Yes think you need to solder. Read the forum cut out the resistor, use a crockedile wire to find the wright resistor and solder it in. If you need a pullup you can use V+ from Tacho and connect it to Tacho signal with a resistor 450ohm if i remember well. Read wiki for that ...

Wiki ?
Where did you found those extra info ? I only found that PDF instructions.

Thanks

Google -> ae86 + Tacho   ;D

Wiki vems.hu/wiki
Use the search box at the bottom to find info

I've dismantled the cluster.
I guess tacho will be easy at the end.
Tacho:
(https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/-pEkvPravjLQ/TvcfazhuMfI/AAAAAAAAGps/3oyN6WUvZ8Q/s400/IMG_0928.JPG)

When I'am at it, I decided to try to make Wheel Speed Input work also.
AE86 has cable driven speedometer, with Reed switch at the gauge cluster. It switches 4 times to ground in one revolution.
So i figured i connect that with input pin on board/cpu via pull-up with maximum voltage in 2-3V area.
Later in VemsTune i can fine tune it so i get exact reading.

Can i do that? No burning CPU's ? :)

Speedo:
(https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/-xD7R6o3Cqh0/TvcfYYcjuXI/AAAAAAAAGpo/igeCkIqhwtg/s400/IMG_0927.JPG)

I suppose its possible using a signal input channel.
read the wiki carefully before you connect it because you can kill your unit if the signal is not conditioned properly.

On wiki, it is mentioned that i need to take care of maximum voltage, 5V is suggested.
I recon it's best to keep it below 4V then.

http://www.vems.hu/wiki/index.php?page=InputTrigger%2FWheelSpeed
http://www.vems.hu/wiki/index.php?page=MembersPage%2FGergelyLezsak%2FAssemblyThreePointFive

What i can't find on Wiki is that will reed switch connected to ground work.

Unfortunately, i'm not thate good with electronics, especially VEMS main CPU :D

Hi i have absolute no idea how to do this
But my first thought would be to use a board pullup 5v or 3.3v from the processor power circuit and  via a zener diode to the read switch and then to ground.
But i dont know if its possible in this case.

That's exactly what i thought. If there is 3.3V on the board, even better, or I would use 5V and lower it a bit.

It would be great if any of our dear professionals would approve this design :)

Thanks

For first I suggest to measure what is voltage levels now on VSS from cluster side. And only then decide what circuitry to use.

Gints.

Any update on vems controlled speedo?

We are rebuilding engine, cams and stuff, so VEMS is on hold.
Will let you know when i, again, get to that point :).

Sasa

any updates?

Huh... after months of work on car (bodywork, cage, electrics), we droped the engine sometimes in July and started it few days ago.
It fired like a champ, i didn't even have my PC with me, it cranked for a minut and than bam :).
Two more cranks, two more easy starts so I figure that's it.

Need to fix few more things, but i believe i will drive the car next week, can't wait! :)
It's been some 9 months since i've driven my AE86, huh, too long :)

At the moment:
(https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/-ZzdomPZ4K2Q/UEKV-T0RwVI/AAAAAAAAIe8/ijUXQjJeDrs/s800/2012-09-01.jpg)

Haven't tried speedo and tacho booster setups, will know if that works as soon as i drive it a bit :)

Regards

Awesome!

nice one ;D

Forum just warned me if I'm sure i want to post in this topic since it was 120 days since last post :).

Lot of things happen to me and the car, but last few months were busy for two of us.
Some things got changed, some improved and many removed :)

Anyway, it should (can't say ano more that it will) be over in 5-10 days since i promised i will not start any change/part until car starts and i get to drive it again.

ATM it fires and looks like this
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=IPZCQZcr-74&feature=youtu.be

Thank you all for support

p.s. DAN, i managed to get that tacho working :)

Well Done keep it up  ;)

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=crDArWxr7ng


First steps :)