Seven replica with 1.8T-20V

[Morty]

Hi,

Here is a short summary of a project I have been working on for the last two years.

Chassi: MK Indy from MK Sportscars with many modifications to accept the engine and few own ideas.
Engine: VW/Audi AEB, 1.8T-20V
Gearbox: Ford Type 9 from a Scorpio/Granada V6
Diff: Ford Scorpio Cosworth 3,62 with LSD
Brakes: Front Wilwood with 283mm discs, rear Sierra discs.
Weight: 540kg

ECU: VEMS 3.3
Firmware: 1.0.73
Standard K03 turbo and 240cc injectors (might be changed when the car passes SVA and is road legal...)







The engine is up running. It starts up and is idling fine, but I am struggling with missfires that starts at 1700 rpm and are really bad at 2200rpm.

Magnus

[Morty]

Today I have checked the timing of the camsync pulse compared to the trigger.
TDC after the trigger on my crank shaft is 80 deg. In the oscilloscope it looks like this:



The cam sync sensor is of hall type and my settings in MT looks like this.



My question is if my settings are correct as it seems to be working? However I have not added any values for rising/falling edge and the first setting "TODO" what value should be put in these boxes?

/Magnus

[[email protected]]

25 is a perfectly good setting, and seems to be the default value for most cam syncs.
The number is made up from a binary mask that sets the trigger:
bit0 0:falling/1:rising, bit1 0:enable/1:disable, bit2 1:filtering, bit3 0:toothwheel/1:coil, bit4 0:alien advance/1:cam sync, bit5 1:both edge at cranking bit6:fiatstilo

So 25 is: 11001

bit0 is set to 1 so thats rising
bit1 is set to 0 so thats enabled
bit2 is set to 0 so thats filtering off
bit3 is set to 1 so thats coil type
bit4 is set to 1 so thats cam sync
The rest are 0 so thats single edge at cranking and fiat stillo trigger disabled

[Morty]

Thanks for quick answer!

Am I on the right track if I leave the settings as they are?
Above you specified 7 settings out of 8 possible and I do not know which bit(setting) you left out (or I did not understand!!).
Is there no need to set the rising &/or falling edge?

Best regards
Magnus

[[email protected]]

Theres no need to worry about the settings, its a simple on-off type of thing until it gets to Fiat Stillo/Cosworth triggers then theres some messing around that very few people understand and even less care about.
The only reason you might want to mess with rising/falling is if one of the edges clashed with one of the primary trigger edges - the ECU doesnt take well to that happening.

[GintsK]

In current hardware it can be that camsync signal is close to trigger toothh!!

What is in other trigger window?

[Morty]

The only reason you might want to mess with rising/falling is if one of the edges clashed with one of the primary trigger edges - the ECU doesnt take well to that happening.

In my case it looks like the rising edge is happening at tooth no. 9. The trigger tooth in under my primary trigger settings is no.2. That means I'm safe for this??

GintsK,
sorry I do not fully follow you. Do you mean in my hardware setup and what setting I have for the primary trigger in MT?

[GintsK]

i mean engine. Give us to see your primary trigger window.

[Morty]

This is my latest. I have also tried to use no 0, 2 and 3 as trigger toorh.



The trigger wheel is the OEM 60-2 and the VR sensor is the OEM as well.

[gunni]

I would suggest to have it

Falling instead of Rising.

[Morty]

I have tried falling and I discussed this as well with Jorgen last week in the same time as we talked about my missfires. According to him when using a VR sensor it should be set as rising and that the ECU will trigger on the falling edge even if the setting is rising. Please do not ask me how, as it is well out of my knowledge.....

[Morty]

As I wrote in the trigger post I submited some time ago, the reason for my missfires and cutted sparks was the cam sync together with too high amplitude on the first trigger tooth. Jorgen made a filter for the trigger signal and told me to disable the cam sync and switch to waste fire until we know more.

It felt nice when it was possible rev the engine higher then 1700 rpm..... :)

Now the fun bit should start and hopefully I will get it up running good enough for SVA in a short time.
Then we can start to get some more power from the bits and pieces.

Does anyone have a basic spark table for a VW/AUDI 1.8T-20V?

[Morty]

Yesterday Jorgen came around my house and helped me with the mapping. It took a while to configure the setup and he also loaded in firmware 1.0.77. After this we did some miles in the car the get spark, VE, lamda table and boost pressure right.
Now the cars runs like a dream and I will book final SVA inspection and MOT within short.

[Smitherines]

Any progress with this project, Morty?

[Morty]

I guess both yes and no....

The car passed the tests and is road legal since June 2009. I drove about 1400 miles during last summer, including approx 300 laps during track days.
The picture below is from a racing track (Kinnekulle) in Sweden last August and is taken by Peter Lindberg Photography (Thanks Peter!)


The engine performed really sweet at all times and no signs of overheating, missfires, nice steady boost at 1bar. There was enough power to push the car from 0 to 60 in 4,3 s. With better grip it should be possible to lower that figure.

However now the car is totally stripped down and being rebuilt. New rollbar, new petroltank and a new 1.8-20V NA engine + some other small bits and pieces.

New Engine spec.

Audi AEB (1.8T-20V) bottom end
82,5mm Wössner forged pistons with 12,3:1 CR
H-beams
Race bearings
Dry sump

Audi AEB head
Oversize Supertech valves
Supertech valve springs with titanium retainers
Cat Cam shafts
ITB's
ARP bolts