At my wits end with this crank trigger - the saga continues!!

[Valver.]

Thanks - well it is a hall sensor then, as it had a 12v supply as standard, but I've now run it through the 5v pin off the VEMS.

The guys in Hungary are trying to help me on the Wiki and want more info (I'm not sure what else I can give, but anyway?!):

Than you need to publish details about your setup IssueReports

for checklist

firmware
mcd / mct dump
logs
etc...
It might be something simple, but publish these first

How does one get the mcd/mct dump info... I don't even know what this is!?

Here is all the info that is on the Wiki about the setup - what more can be offered???

http://www.vems.hu/wiki/index.php?page=MembersPage%2FBasilDaham%2FCordobaSX%2FTriggerSetup

http://www.vems.hu/wiki/index.php?page=MembersPage%2FBasilDaham%2FCordobaSX

http://www.vems.hu/wiki/index.php?page=MembersPage%2FStuFrench

This will be my last week of trying to make this car run with the VEMS anyway - I think 6 months is about enough, my starter, battery and general patience have expired and I've really got nowhere. I don't know that I could ever have faith in the computer after all this anyway. I can just see myself stranded somewhere in the future if the RPM signal decides to disappear again

[rob@vems.co.uk]

The mcd and mct info comes from using download-config.bat, these will make config.bat and tables.bat files in the config directory.

[Bat]

Hi,
Is the new board setup for hall or VR? 2.2.5 in the build guide...
That Golf looks fantastic!
Cheers,
Gavin

[Bat]

Hi,
I'd carry out this check as even factory manuals have mistakes in them. I'd bench test the sensor with a piece of metal to be absolutely sure, I'm confused as to how a hall sensor and a VR sensor can have the same part number...
Cheers,
Gavin

thats bizarre if it is the same part number. is the connector rectaangular, or is it "D" shaped like the MK4?
If it is rectangular, use an ohm-meter on pins 1 and 2, you should get 700-900 ohms or so. if that is the case, and you get infinite ohms to pin 3 from the other pins, then you have yourself a Mag sensor.  Take it out, and put the meter on volts. Pins 1 (+) and 2 (-). Put a steel wrench against the sensor while watching the voltage, it will flash positive for a split second. Then take the wrench away from the sensor, it will flash negative.

Theres some internal modifications to do to allow the mag sensor, but if thats what the sensor is then you should be good to go.
Good luck!

[Valver.]

The mcd and mct info comes from using download-config.bat, these will make config.bat and tables.bat files in the config directory.

Thanks Rob: now I can upload these, too

[Valver.]

Hi,
I'd carry out this check as even factory manuals have mistakes in them. I'd bench test the sensor with a piece of metal to be absolutely sure, I'm confused as to how a hall sensor and a VR sensor can have the same part number...
Cheers,
Gavin

thats bizarre if it is the same part number. is the connector rectaangular, or is it "D" shaped like the MK4?
If it is rectangular, use an ohm-meter on pins 1 and 2, you should get 700-900 ohms or so. if that is the case, and you get infinite ohms to pin 3 from the other pins, then you have yourself a Mag sensor.  Take it out, and put the meter on volts. Pins 1 (+) and 2 (-). Put a steel wrench against the sensor while watching the voltage, it will flash positive for a split second. Then take the wrench away from the sensor, it will flash negative.

Theres some internal modifications to do to allow the mag sensor, but if thats what the sensor is then you should be good to go.
Good luck!

It's setup for a hall sensor apparently The sensor is definitely the same part number and definitely had 12v supply as standard (I've even checked this on a stock vehicle to be sure).

Is it at all plausible at a VR sensor could operate as a hall sensor?! In saying this, though, it must be a hall sensor as this is how the previous owner had the VEMS setup 

It would make a lot of sense if it were a VR sensor... heck, I might aswell try setting the board up for a VR sensor as a last resort, just to see what happens?! The ABF block is effectively an ABA block, though, so I can't believe the sensors would be different - the part number is definitely the same too...

[Bat]

Hi,
No, that's what's bothering me. How are you going to know if you go to VW and buy a new sensor you've got the right one?
A VR sensor is just a coil of wire round a magnet, imagine what you'd do to the ECU if you put 12V into one end and fed the other to the ECU input!
A hall sensor has switching electronics in it, hence the need for a power supply...
Cheers,
Gavin

[rob@vems.co.uk]

Okay... as we had some success with the Citroen I thought I'd try and repeat things by creating a tested 60-2 setup:
Try this:
http://www.vems.co.uk/VEMSInstalls/VemsMT1.0.73.60-2.zip

Make a backup of your existing setup then upload the firmware and configs from this one.

And we'll see if it solves problems.

Rob

[Valver.]

Thanks again to both of you: I've just checked again and the VR and hall sensors definitely have the same part number - strange?! The only explanation I can come up with is that everyone is wrong in thinking that the my particular engine has a hall sensor... But, this being the case, how did the previous owner have the car running and why has it run for me in the past 

I'll try Rob's new configs tonight.

Cheers

[Valver.]

Okay... as we had some success with the Citroen I thought I'd try and repeat things by creating a tested 60-2 setup:
Try this:
http://www.vems.co.uk/VEMSInstalls/VemsMT1.0.73.60-2.zip

Make a backup of your existing setup then upload the firmware and configs from this one.

And we'll see if it solves problems.

Rob

Well that was interesting: first of all, again thanks Rob. Secondly, I now have a perfect crank signal in Megatune - it's remained consisted over multiple cranks aswell, so I truly believe we have solved this side of things now 

Secondly, with the new config etc, I only have a spark from cyl's 1 & 4 - it is a very strong spark (in fact, far better than when the car was running), but I obviously need 2 and 3 to jump into the ball game.

I am yet to pull the fuel rail and check for spray from all 4 injectors as this is a fairly time consuming task compared to pulling the plugs.

So, the money question to all you smart people: where to now 

[rob@vems.co.uk]

Well you need to set the ignition outputs to suit the wiring on your car. 1&4 are clearly being driven, You need to identify the pin that 2&3's coil is connected to and set that up in your Settings->Ignition Output screen.

At the moment I'd be running without fuel, if you have been injecting and not firing you may find that your oil level is a little higher that when you last checked - and that its petrol thats caused the rise...

[Bat]

Hi,
I'd move the wire from the coil pack to the correct pin on the VEMs, rather than mess about now you've got a working config
Cheers,
Gavin

[Valver.]

Well you need to set the ignition outputs to suit the wiring on your car. 1&4 are clearly being driven, You need to identify the pin that 2&3's coil is connected to and set that up in your Settings->Ignition Output screen.

At the moment I'd be running without fuel, if you have been injecting and not firing you may find that your oil level is a little higher that when you last checked - and that its petrol thats caused the rise...

I've had the injector multiplug disconnected much of the time, but I'm going to drop the oil this weekend just to protect the bearings from contaminated oil

Hi,
I'd move the wire from the coil pack to the correct pin on the VEMs, rather than mess about now you've got a working config
Cheers,
Gavin

I'm hearing you  I'll have another crack at things over the weekend and report back with my results. Must be getting close now...

[rob@vems.co.uk]

I can't remember the setup of what you got there - I just grabbed a setup I knew worked and sent it out - you'll have to set the wideband up, and probably the firing order of injectors and ignition

[Valver.]

I can't remember the setup of what you got there - I just grabbed a setup I knew worked and sent it out - you'll have to set the wideband up, and probably the firing order of injectors and ignition

I've just edited a few outputs in offline mode and will get in the garage tonight and see how I go