At my wits end with this crank trigger - the saga continues!!

[GintsK]

Ignition/stepper outputs problem is easy to solve using Megatune for 1.0.73.
Under Advanced->H2,checkthat all these settings are 0. Everywhere must be Ign or 0.

Gints

[Valver.]

Thanks I'll edit these things tonight and post my results.

[Valver.]

Well... the RPM signal has now disappeared again  I changed the spark config as described by Rob (spark still didn't return, though) and RPM was counting ok for a while. Now it has practically gone, though, and only registers a quick reading on occasion.

I really don't know if I can take anymore of this 

[rob@vems.co.uk]

Well its beginning to look all very strange, where did you get with the information regarding the damage that had happened to the system reported by Hungary?

[Valver.]

Well its beginning to look all very strange, where did you get with the information regarding the damage that had happened to the system reported by Hungary?

Hi Rob,

Prior to sending the ECU to Hungary, the crank sensor power and earth wires had broken their sheathes (heat) and grounded together and I understand that had damaged something.

Prior to that, and now the ECU is back with a new board, there is no way anything could be damaged as all the grounds are perfect

I just really doesn't make sense...

[Valver.]

At the end of the day, what can I do now? I really don't see what else can be checked - and I'll put money on it, the RPM signal will still come back intermittently!

I can't morally sell the setup because it doesn't work and I have been trying 6 months to get this car to start!

What options are left for me, apart from quite literally throwing the VEMS away?!

It really has to be a configuration problem: the trigger settings are fine, the crank signal is perfect on the scope, we have tested, tested, and re-tested all the grounds and I have a new mainboard - what else is left?! The only other thing is the soldering of the board from what I understand (?) - is it correct for a 60-2 hall sensor? And how do I check? Surely this and/or the config can be all that's left.

Is there anyone I can send the VEMS to that can write me a fresh config for my setup, plus check everything over?!

[Bat]

Hi,
Where in the world are you, please?
Someone nearby may be able to take a look for you....
Cheers,
Gavin

[Valver.]

I'm in Australia 

[rob@vems.co.uk]

What car is it?  I'll see if I can find a known good config.

[Valver.]

The engine is from a SEAT Ibiza Cupra 2.0 16v, which is the same as a VW Golf Mk3 2.0 16v GTI, and it's been turbocharged. The engine code prefix is "ABF"

Just as an overview, it uses a hall-type 60-2 trigger wheel and the secondary trigger function is disabled. It's wasted spark igntion using a common Bosch VW/Audi coil. I am also curious about something else with the setup: the previous owner removed the factory ignitor from the coil he supplied... the has run like this, but how exactly does this work?

Thanks Rob - if only you lived nextdoor 

It's also worth pointing out that even when the RPM counts under cranking, it never really rises above 250rpm - thus stays in the red zone of the tacho in Megatune. This is the case even when I have the car jumped to another vehicle or connected my monster 1100cca Optima D31M back-up battery.


This is the engine as I have assembled it - it looks nice, it just won't run 

[lugnuts]

Hello, I cant fix all of your problems because you have some "euro" parts I have never physically seen. (ABF Hall crank sensor, the coil) But I work on mostly VW's and I have 2 VEMS running om ABA/16v engines now. In the USA they use a magnetic sensor for the crank. So the trigger wheel is something that the VEMS should be able to run perfectly.
The ABA(2.0 8v) and VR6 ignition coils have an Ignitor that can be removed. This is fine as long as the VEMS ignition is set up for it. For no ignitor you want to use the VEMS "12v Power, or IGBT" instead of "Logic Level"
It is important to know that the "12v Power" outputs have their own pins in the EC36 connector. So for example you cannot just change from "logic level" to "12v Power" in the software, you must move a wire.

If you have a websho assembled ECU, let us know your ignition configuration from your order information (how many ignition drivers: 8, 4, 2). Then look at PhatBobsUserGuide to check that the correct wires are being used for those outputs.

About the tach in Megatune, 250 RPM is about right for cranking, and the red zone can be changed in the Megatune .ini file. But it's (the red) not hurting anything.     

[Valver.]

Hello, I cant fix all of your problems because you have some "euro" parts I have never physically seen. (ABF Hall crank sensor, the coil) But I work on mostly VW's and I have 2 VEMS running om ABA/16v engines now. In the USA they use a magnetic sensor for the crank. So the trigger wheel is something that the VEMS should be able to run perfectly.
The ABA(2.0 8v) and VR6 ignition coils have an Ignitor that can be removed. This is fine as long as the VEMS ignition is set up for it. For no ignitor you want to use the VEMS "12v Power, or IGBT" instead of "Logic Level"
It is important to know that the "12v Power" outputs have their own pins in the EC36 connector. So for example you cannot just change from "logic level" to "12v Power" in the software, you must move a wire.

If you have a websho assembled ECU, let us know your ignition configuration from your order information (how many ignition drivers: 8, 4, 2). Then look at PhatBobsUserGuide to check that the correct wires are being used for those outputs.

About the tach in Megatune, 250 RPM is about right for cranking, and the red zone can be changed in the Megatune .ini file. But it's (the red) not hurting anything.     

Thanks for your reply The ABA/ABF crank sensor thing is something I've been very curious about: the sensors are the same (same VW p/n and everything), but apparently the ABF is a hall sensor and the ABA/ADY/AGG etc 2.0 8vs are VR sensors?!

Is it worth me trying a configuration for a VR sensor instead then?

[lugnuts]

thats bizarre if it is the same part number. is the connector rectaangular, or is it "D" shaped like the MK4?
If it is rectangular, use an ohm-meter on pins 1 and 2, you should get 700-900 ohms or so. if that is the case, and you get infinite ohms to pin 3 from the other pins, then you have yourself a Mag sensor.  Take it out, and put the meter on volts. Pins 1 (+) and 2 (-). Put a steel wrench against the sensor while watching the voltage, it will flash positive for a split second. Then take the wrench away from the sensor, it will flash negative.

Theres some internal modifications to do to allow the mag sensor, but if thats what the sensor is then you should be good to go.
Good luck!

[Valver.]

It is most definitely a magnetic sensor

[lugnuts]

I want to clarify,that by "mag" I mean a VR or Variable Reluctor sensor.
A Hall sensor is "magnetic" , it will attract a metal object just like a VR sensor will.

Another way to tell a Hall sensor if by the OEM wiring, it will have +5v to +12v power to one pin.