WBO2 Issues

[Sprocket]

I have today been getting things ready on the Mini for a charity run next week end. I re installed the ECU after carrying out the mods. everything went fine, engine started first time.

I then noticed that the Lambda reading was 13.4 and fixed. I checked and rechecked all the wiring, the fuses and even used the terminal program to turn on the heater and watched the results on the LCD. The first time I did that, the Lambda reading returned was the same 13.4, but subsequent attempts there lambda reading remained ??.?? I suspect the sensor is FUBAR'd which leads to the question why.

I intend to check the ECU input/output by using the 100ohm resistors, these I have to get, and test this as per Robs guide on calibrating WBO2. Is there anything else that could be checked. I know I have been dicking around with the connectors and the board so I need to make sure that this is not the problem first.

That said, is there any way of checking the sensor itself? I have two lambda sensors in the manifold on different branches, I dont want to plug into the second if the ECU has buggered the sensor in the first place.

Help much apreciated

[rob@vems.co.uk]

The only time I've known the VEMS to kill a sensor was when the PID settings were wrong.
Excess fuel, vibration or water build-up kills more sensors than anything else that I've seen.

[Sprocket]

Ah ok. Well I will check everything out to be sure.

I de soldered the EC18 connector off the board to fit the other EC36. All the pins and locations of the original EC18 have not been disturbed, they are just in the middle of the EC36 connector and the 'spare' pins connected to wiring to the on board points, I cant see that being the problem and the actual wire connections are correct.

It is indeed very odd, but the one thing that is undeniable is that I have been dicking around with the board again, lol.

I'll check everything out and swap over to the other sensor.

I really do need to stop messing with it

[Sprocket]

I think I found the problem

I checked everything out and the only thing out of the ordinary was the volt reading between WBO2 pins 1 and 5, where this should be 0.45v I was getting 0.0v. I tryed adjusting the Pump PID nernst target voltage but still  zero volts. After removing the EC18-13 pin and measuring the voltage there, i was getting 4.11v. This then lead me to the problem being on the board itself.

Looking at the schematic, and the board circuit, I checked continuity between EC18-13 pin and the common pads of R144, 145, 146 to find that there was infinity. This was the problem, the track was damaged.

I bridged this small gap with a THIN piece of wire and checked the continuity, and all appears to be ok now, I compared the readings to the second wideband and everything was just about the same.

I now need to try it in the car again and re adjust the Pump PID nernst target volts

I think I may have just recovered, again

Tough old boots these things

[Sprocket]

This is still a problem, I have done some further testing, and posted up the results on the Wiki, I hope some one will come along and help.

Im off to put the standard OEM stuff back in the car for the week end at least.

Never rains but it pours, and if it aint broke, dont fix it

[Sprocket]

Where or who can i send this to to get it fixed. I need to know pretty soon whether I need an new board or not

I have replaced one of the Op amps that was suspect, but nothing has changed

Please help one way or the other. I need this working for mid march, which may seem like a long way away, but when your building and engine, and welding on the car, and working away, its damn close


Please help; in distress

[rob@vems.co.uk]

Best to ask the people you bought from: info@vems.hu

They'll be able to give you some idea of repair costs and timescales

Rob