Going from VR 36-1 back to Toyota Dizzy? (Only Temp)

[Will]

Right I was doing a bit of tuning tonight, got it going quite well (Not running silly rich).
Too well in fact and I accidentally hit about 9K RPM, will know when I pull the log off the Laptop, anyway MR 36-1 wheel decided he didn't like 9K or what ever it was, so he said bye bye (Feck knows how it didn't rip the engine bay apart!).

Anyway till I can buy a new wheel and install it etc, can I just convert back to the Toyota 4AGE Dizzy output's to power the ECU, or do I have to make mods to the board? Could I use the 2nd Ign input ie whats normaly used for Cam input and convert in software to make that the main input?

I'm running wasted spark directly controlling a EDIS coil pack.

Thanks Will

[Will]

Just looked into it some more, I have a VR sensor in my dizzy. I have defo a 4 prong wheel, need to see if i have a 12 or 24 wheel as well to run 12-1. How do i work out which tooth/teath to remove? Is that enough for wasted spark?

Thanks Will

[rob@vems.co.uk]

Will, that sounds a bit grim

The ECU you have wont be able to use the secondary trigger as its setup for Hall and not VR so it would need an additional chip and some additional supporting components soldered in,  I've never had much success with the 16V distributor because of its slop and electrical noise.

I recommend the Raw Engineering pulley kit - an excellent bit of kit.

BTW I'd love to see the datalogs of the EDIS coil hitting 9K normally they can't get past 8250rpm as the charge time those EDIS packs need is too long.  Seems that the overlapping coil charge code works!

[rob@vems.co.uk]

Just looked into it some more, I have a VR sensor in my dizzy. I have defo a 4 prong wheel, need to see if i have a 12 or 24 wheel as well to run 12-1. How do i work out which tooth/teath to remove? Is that enough for wasted spark?

Thanks Will

Ah! If you're up for a bit of cutting... You can keep to the primary trigger on the VEMS, use the 24tooth wheel and remove one tooth, this will give you what you need for sequential injection and ignition (you could potentially go to Coil on plugs if you felt so inclined).

As for the tooth to cut - Skassa (Denmark) cut two teeth out and ran okay (although he went to 36-1 in the end) I'll see if I can find his information - I'd cut one tooth first though

[rob@vems.co.uk]

The Wiki seems to be down at the moment.  So I'll tell you how I would do this, feel free to jump in with any corrections or questions.

The trigger needs to occur 90 to 60 degrees before tdc.

So set your engine to TDC on cylinder one's compression stroke and note the tooth thats next to the VR pick-up.

Then count back 4 teeth  (24 teeth for 720^o of crank rotation means 1 tooth for 30^o) and mark it.
This will give the missing tooth at 120^oBTDC, you will then be able to set the trigger tooth to 1 (the first tooth after the missing trigger), and then another tooth to 6.

This is the first part I think we might need to use some pull-up/down resistors to clean up the signal that we'll get from this.

Rob

[Will]

Right when i get home tonight, I will align it all up etc and take a pic so you can check i have the right tooth before i go removing a tooth.

Thanks for these quick replys

[rob@vems.co.uk]

Because of the way we can configure the firing order, trigger teeth and TDC offset you can cut pretty much what ever tooth you want - but its best to try and get it somewhere close to sensible.

[irishtwincam]

Hey Bob,

Remember on my car the problem with nopise stemmed from the OEM loom with unshielded wiring.
Perhaps if the loom on Wills car is a VEMS item itll have shielded wiring frmo the dizzy base making life better?

[rob@vems.co.uk]

This is true, but there are some other noise issues that could cause problems outside of this.

Only way to find out is to get some solid data.