Wheelspeed2 pre-wired to output pin?

[RazOn]

I want to wire a 2'nd speed sensor and when I looked into implementing the protection circuit for the SCL pin but it seems it's already been done on my ECU.
However, the part that confuses me is that the wire is tied internally to EC36-30. This pin shows in all drawings and VemsTune Outputs configuration as: P259 Ch7.

Have you guys seen this before? what do you think about it?
See pictures below


Note: I bought the ECU brand new; the only modification I did so far was the 27kohm resistor for LSU4.9 wideband. It came with all the extra wires/hot glue on the PCB.

[jrussell]

ec36-30 is the standard pin for wheelspeed2, if configured. It should be noted on the papers that came with your ECU. It's normal.

[RazOn]

I didn't receive any papers with my ecu. I always found that odd.
I wonder what all the other wires/hot glue is for 

Thank you very much!

[jrussell]

From whom did you buy it? It should come with the build sheets and that lists the options and the pinout since several pins are configurable depending on options requested upon order. The other components and wires are standard. Several items are configurable at order time, and this is how it's configured. They are hot-glued for vibration/stress protection.

[RazOn]

EC36-30 Is indeed the wheeelspeed2 input. I used a frequency generator to test it out.... speed reading is accurate. Now I just have to get a VR to hall converter and hook up the abs sensor.

ECU came with a plug and play harness, "base map" and no papers. Basic features worked so I never needed to look at the wiring.
Now that I'm doing the extra features I wish I had a pinout specific to this ECU.

[wersch]

Just email VEMS the serial nr of the unit and they will give you the specifications on the box.

[Mads Lund]

If you use the VR to hall converter from Vems, then be carefull to observe the output resistor on the VR2Hall, if in use, then you can have problems with the voltage on the cpu pin, not going low enough to trigger.

Read this post: http://www.vemssupport.com/forum/index.php/topic,2916.msg25458.html#msg25458

[RazOn]

Thanks a lot!

[RazOn]

So, I tried the new converter and I can't get it to work properly.
It seems to be position sensitive. If I move it just in the right position it will work fine for a while, then it will stop working or show wrong speed, then it will come back to normal....

Here's what I tried:

-Suspected the wiring since it really looks like intermittent operation, so I changed it. I'm using 3 wire shielded cable. Converter located at back of the car so it's closer to the sensor and less susceptible to noise.
-Soldered wires straight to board in and out (no db9 connector)
-Removed 1k resistors in series with outputs
-wrapped converter in tin foil and tied foil to cable shield
-tried different sensitivity settings
-hooked up scope to sensor... signal looks clean
-hooked up scope to converter output, and I was able to read speed without problems... moving the converter/wires around never created an issue. Square wave coming out of it is a bit weird:  5v then ramps down to maybe 3 V goes to 0V and ramps up to maybe 2 then back to 5V...repeating the cycle. I've seen my scope do this when frequency is low...not too worried about it right now.
SO, since it worked with the scope hooked up I figured the internal resistance might have something to do with it. I connected 100k resistor to gnd and tried again (no scope connected) but still doesn't work

Here's a screenshot of a log while driving... so the converter is loose, possibly moving around.
Is it possible to log the actual pulses coming on the input? Any ideas what's causing this?

[RazOn]

Maybe somebody that got it going can mention how exactly the converter was wired.

I used EC36-22 for GND and shield, EC36-28 for +5V supply to adapter and wired the output signal of the adapter to EC36-30 (shield only connected at ECU end).
I used 3 wire +shield cable; cable is about 8-9ft (2m) long going to the rear wheel well (inside the car) where I mounted the converter. I used the OEM ABS sensor and sensor wire to connect to converter (2 conductor, not shielded)

Thank You!

[Mads Lund]

Hi

It will help, if you can get a proper working scope, and take a picture of the signal om teh VR side (just turn wheel by hand) and a picture on tth output from the VR2Hall and a last one directly on the processor pin.

Br Mads

[RazOn]

I got some movies made with the signals, I can post them later when I get to a PC
However, I got a 2'nd converter, and it does the same thing.

Right now, I'm 99% sure the LM1815 has a problem arming the input in the default mode (no solder blob). After I cycle power, the converter doesn't work; to get it going I just squeeze the PCB between my fingers in the area where the arming threshold selection pads are. Not sure what that does to it, but it keeps working even after I let go.

If I put the solder blob so that it has lowest arming threshold the converter works after power cycle without "help to get started", but only works at very slow speed. If I spin the wheel faster than ~1time/sec i get flat line on the scope.

If I put the solder blob for >1v arming, then again it works, but I have to spin the wheel quite fast before it Gets going and it doesn't seem to have a problem at higher speeds (as fast as I can turn the wheel by hand)

I moved the converter by the ECU; it doesn't make a difference.

[RazOn]

Here... I fixed it

[Mads Lund]

Super, what was the issue ?

[RazOn]

 
That was a "nice" way of saying it didn't work and made my own Hall sensor with flying magnet setup.

I know the converters work for some people, don't want to be unfair. But at the same time this is a "standard feature" my ECU came with. I paid for it....I shouldn't have to get to this level of troubleshooting, spend a week on it only to throw it out in the garbage.