Yes, I move the whole bracket closer to the gearbox. I usually use a drill and make the hole in the bracket oval. I then move the bracket so the sensor touches the flywheel, and then move it littlebit back, so it`s not scrubbing all the time to the flywheel wall.
To "logg" your signal, you will need an Ocillioscope with a dual channel input. you can find cheap USB ones that you connect to your laptop that will do the job. And meassure both signals at once. Then you can twist your distrebutor untill the signal match up nice. By scoping your signals and posting them here would allso probably help, so we could see the signal-strength and so on.
I dont got an dual channel ocillioscope anymore, so this is what I to know that I`m at the right track of things:
Remove the sensor bracket. Hook up your DVM to the hallsensor signal output (pin in the middle i think).
put the car i 5th gear or so, an slowly push it untill you get the 5v reading on the DVM. Try too find the exact spot where it switches from 0v to 5v. Now if you want you can take a white color marker, and make a little dot at your pulley and engineblock/timingcover as referance. Keep pushing the car untill you see the trigger pin aligne in the sensor hole, and make a new mark at your pulley. push the car again to see when the hall-signal goes from 5v to 0v, and make a new mark at the pulley. You should now have 3 white dots on your pulley. the one in the middle is the trigger pin, and the two at the sides show rising and falling signal. If two of these dots are close to eachother, you will know your hallsensor timing might be a little off if you did it the correct way.
Note! The signal will change by rpm a little when running, so this is not the best way to do it. It`s only something i came up with one day I was strugling with this issue.
As you probably allready know. The secondary trigger in vemstune is the trigger-pin, and not the hall-sensor. The hall-sensor masks the trigger pin every-other crank rotation, so the ecu is only allowed to see the signal each 720 crank deg. This is why it`s important that it actually mask the pin. When I search for errors, I somtimes just ground the hall-signal on the hall-inverted boxes. this will help you roule out the errors, but will give you a 50% chanche that the engine will start in the right cycle.
I got an 3B engine my self, and had exactly this problem after adjusting my cam timing. the only thing was that it happened at around 1400rpm, and not 6500rpm like you.
