90 bmw 325 m50 swap

[gunni]

what I´m saying is that start of by disconnecting the ICV.

Then crack open the throttle so that it idles off that.

Then reconnect the ICV and go into the Idle hardware settings, there set the minimum to 0% and max to 100%.

Then go over to Tools - ICV lock, set it to 0 and send, the engine is now idling of the throttle only. Then start by raising the number, you´ll probably not get the revs to rise until you go above 100 out of 255 which is 40% duty cycle, when that happens slacken of the throttle and raise the figure until the throttle is slackened all the way and the engine is idling at the right warm engine speed. Then raise the number until you get whatever cold engine idle speed you want, say 1300rpm. Now you have your maximum duty cycle,

Now you fill in the referenceDC table with numbers from the maximum to the minimum. Making max duty cycle to be the figure to use from coldest to about 40C° . Then lower the number from 40 to 70C . Now the engine should be able to start and idle at the right speed from cold to warm.

You can now raise the maximum DC and lower the min DC values and turn on the PID control, so that idle speed remains static while you turn on the lights, or A/C or whatever.

[DevInAz]

This is the new acc fuse box that we will be using for VEMS powers, o2 heater, and anything else we might need to be fused from the car.

[DevInAz]

After playing with the idle control valve settings here is how everything is now sitting.



This is the settings before we fine tuned everything.




This is how its set with a smooth idle.  I wasn't sure how to set most of these settings so I kept changing everything back and forth until it all seemed stable. While the idle is smooth the vehicle stalls after a free rev from 3k rpm or when coming to a stop fairly fast and pressing in the clutch.





For anyone that wanted to see all the IAC gauges while the car was idling.
 The RPM gauge to the right of the desktop is a target rpm for the idle control valve to follow in case you are playing with your settings. I found it helpful.

[DevInAz]

While driving the car on the freeway with the boost control set to 150kpa and didn't creap over the car started smoking really bad and miss firing. We drove the car back to the house and did a compression and leak down test. our compression numbers are 150-150-150-150-0-150. All the pressure is going into the crank case. This motor has 200,000+ miles on it but we still don't know if it was motor failure or something we caused. The motor will be pulled tomorrow and torn apart.

Here is the config we were using if anyone wants to take a look. Also this is a stock m50b25 with no motor mods.

http://www.megaupload.com/?d=9VBY8SG5

here is a log thats small.

http://www.megaupload.com/?d=8QLODLPQ

[mattias]

You were of course datalogging everything ?

[DevInAz]

I thought we were logging. It turns out that we weren't. everytime we log or open the output windows Vemstune freezes and we have to restart the program and this time I forgot to push the log button. I messed up. We removed the engine just a minute ago and found out that cyc 5 was detonating and burned through the side of the piston and blew through the rings. The block seems doesn't seem to have any problems. At this point we are thinking about using more stock pistons and getting some new oem rings and rebuilding this motor with a .140mls head gasket and studs. What kind of reasonable power do you guys see out of that combination?

[gunni]

500hp flywheel should be optainable.
cirka 430whp or a bit more.

Did you see what the mixture had been around max boost prior?

[DevInAz]

Gunni I didn't see the mixture as a number, but I watched the o2 with the target at the bottom, I never saw this motor run lean for a second. It had to have ran lean though on number 5 to burn through the piston but that could have happened very quick. From just a riding stand point I thought the car was running really strong even at 150kpa which is only minimal boost isn't it? 7 psi if my math is right? We also kept having pressure pipe pop off at the turbo. Now that the motor is out we will also be installing the new manifold with EGT and a watercooled tial 44mm. At the same time we are changing all the boost pipes and welding on the new 50mm blow off valve. With only one knock sensor could we attach both knock sensor signal wires and put both in the input for VEMS? vems does only have one knock input right?

[gunni]

It can have two..

If you tune it right you´ll not need a knock sensor, almost no car tuned with VEMS uses it.

150kpa is 0.5bar boost or 0.5*14.5 = 7.25psi

I really want to get some time to work on the knock settings but just haven´t so far.

[DevInAz]

Thanks Gunni for your input. We are ordering new piston rings and will rebuild this motor and get the car back on the road asap. You thought that stock m50's can handle around 430whp. What kind of kpa would it take to get to that level?

[gunni]

250kpa or so, that's 22psi boost.

[DevInAz]

The motor is out of the car and torn down. cyl 5 is the one that suffered from detonation. The block looks ok and we will only run a ball hone through the cylinders and re ring the pistons. I hope to have this car back up and running tomorrow some time. I'll post some pictures up tonight.

EDIT:  also where in your experience have you found the best place to mount the egt probe?  I would like to get that welded in today.

[gunni]

Cyl 5 og 6 runner.

[DevInAz]

I would like to use a small pack of LEDs using a low amp output to drive the LEDs when a knock occurs. We have now lost 2 motors and are trying to add in extras to prevent this from happening again if at all possible. Has anyone else done this?

[gunni]

Don´t rely on knock sensing to help you.

fabricate some det-cans and use them while tuning. After that you´ll not have knock.

http://www.google.co.uk/search?q=det-cans&ie=utf-8&oe=utf-8&aq=t&rls=org.mozilla:en-US:official&client=firefox-a