newer firmwares and IAT sensors

[GintsK]

Sorry I have no any picture.
Main difficulty here can be to find right flux.

I leave legs long by some 3D bend.

[billman]

You need special flux for this?

[billman]

one can also weld this one at the stock sensor position??

http://shop.vems.hu/catalog/temperature-sensor-p-54.html?osCsid=a7e20411f9aff684f671964c4a438cfd

[mattias]

Works pretty well, we made this one out of a coolant sensor :

[billman]

Do you used special flux or the ordinary?

[mattias]

The solder that was available was used, I can't remember but it bonded great.

If you have any experience soldering you can tell when there is a good bond.
A good flux, more heat and higher silver content might be required to bond some metals.

[GintsK]

Works pretty well, we made this one out of a coolant sensor :

http://www.vems.hu/files/MembersPage/MattiasSandgren/iat_using_clt.jpg

Audi 1.8T sensor has much better design - sensor element did not suffer from heat radiation and heat conduction trough sensor legs.

I use H3PO4 as flux here. Then wash it in hot water to prevent corrosion.

[audis2turbo]

well,
on audi engines, there is the old type IAT sensor which requires an extra resistor which is piggybacked in the ecu to allow for the sensor to operate(otherwise it will get damaged). This IAT sensor is not very accurate, doing jumps of 4-5C at a time. So lots of VEMS users in audi cars, switch to the 1.8T engined IAT sensor which has an accuracy of 1C, but the extra resistance has to be removed from the ECU prior to connecting it to the car, and obviously when uploading the firmware, the correct temperature files need to be used.

Recently a friend of mine asked about upgrading to this sensor (im about to in the future) and got some answer saying that in 1.1.7x and 1.1.8x firmwares, the IAT resolution is 2C no matter which IAT sensor is used out of the 2. Both need the resistance removed, and the proper files uploaded with the firmware.

So my question was going to be, if people are aware of this, cause that will save me some extra £££ removing the inlet manifold to make the modifications for the 1.8T sensor. (having said that, the 1.8T sensor is much cheaper to replace if damaged than the old type that audi cars used).

Hi,
what do you use for Firmware?
On the 1.1.27 do not Work MAT versus VE or retard Spark Advance.
Sorry for my bad English.
We use the BERU Sensor.
http://shop.vems.hu/catalog/sensor-p-115.html
Cost 15€ in Germany

Greets

[mattias]

Audi 1.8T sensor has much better design - sensor element did not suffer from heat radiation and heat conduction trough sensor legs.

It's a cheap way to custom-make a sensor - and it works pretty well.  Actually it didn't make any noticeable difference in the tune or transient response from the sensor when we replaced this home-made sensor with the Beru sensor from the web shop (used in Mercedes and lots of VW/Audi). It does have a stronger tendency to heat soak if mounted in a hot intake, but the Beru sensor that I always use these days is not completely safe from that either as I've tweaked the MAT/TPS table on many cars to cure that problem to handle a hot engine idle.
I always try to mount the IAT sensor in the intake pipe before the throttlebody, it is usually the best compromise with least problems with heat soak/radiation.

[billman]

I am thinking to replace the resistance on the original iat sensor because the connector goes sideways out. Right now and because of the longer engine block the 1.8t iat that that the connector on top hits the bonnet. Appart from it if you use the stock holes than the plastic of the sensor is on the way of the air flow because the sensor is sitting sideways.

What is the part number of the beru one?

[GintsK]

In theory best place to measure temperature is close to valve. And always better is to use fastest, less heat conductive sensor. In my opinion 1.8T sensor has best design. BERU one - same price but not so good in mentioned qualities.

Does anyone have idea where now to get glass NTC elements?