TOYOTA Celica GT4 trigger

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What are your cranking PWs?

Is the fuel pump running?

[irishtwincam]

Always have a spare battery when starting for the first time!
Bascs:

Kill power to injectors
Kill power to spark plugs
Swing engine

Does fuel pump start?
If not then you need to setup triggers better, or fuel pump setup/hardware!

[Wayne]

fuel pump is running
all other values are ok, on the MT screen
i saw a injetion tiime of 6ms while cranking

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It depends on the size of the injectors - but that seems a little on the low side, my rule of thumb for cranking PW is
3 x Req_fuel for the cold crank
0.75 x Req_fuel for warm crank

[Wayne]

Ok,
in which table i must correct the value ?


Here is a graph from my trigger wheel and some commends,
please have a look at them and give me your ok if this is right.

[Wayne]

My injectors are 450ml and enigne displacement is 2000cc 4cyl. -> means reguest of fuel 6ms
Yesterday i tried to start again.
Now when cranking i had 16ms of injaction pulse an the plugs are always dry.
They smell only a little bit of fuel.
Ignitoin looks good, and when the voltage of the battery goes down,
the ignition is away, i set the coil dwell time from 3.3ms to around 6, and the ignition is
here again.

Engine does not run !!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

[[email protected]]

So you have quite a voltage drop.
Have you moved the
You need to start data-logging your start attempts so that you can review the transient changes and tune the settings accordingly.

[Wayne]

but an original ecu starts the engine,
when the starter motor is able to turn the engine
for only a few strokes before the battery is empty.
An there the voltage is very low and the injectors fire.

In my case i measured the voltage supply of the injectors
from 9V while cranking.

please have a look on my config, i hope the settings are ok,
because i tried to start the engine for about 10 hours and nothing
happend.


http://www.vems.hu/files/ThomasSchragl/config.txt 



My starter motor is suffering.

[[email protected]]

The original ECU will have the correct injector battery factor, and will have had many man hours of cranking fuelling.

Don't cook your starter motor - if the car is not starting within a few seconds then there is no need to keep cranking.
If your battery is loosing voltage then you need to sort that problem out, constant cranking will damage the thing.

Looking at your config...
battfac seems low - only 9 - the higher the number the more the ecu will hold the injectors open as voltage drops.

[Wayne]

All other values in my config looks realistic ?

Value "battfac (us)" -  what is a good starting point

[Wayne]

Ok,
yesterday evening i tried some other values in batfac from 600 up to 4000,
the next i tried was to set the prime pulse to 20ms.

When i turn on the unit it squirts 20ms, i turn on and of the unit for 5 times without cranking,
then cranking and it comes a big bang from the exhaust but no more. Plugs are dry !!!!!

Also i soldered some leds to the injection cables, when i turn on the unit all 4 flashes,
and when cranking also leds flashing. but i get not enough fuel!!!!!!!!!!

no firing, ignition point looks good.

I don't know what to do next

[[email protected]]

can you scope the injectors to check that they're actually pulsing?
Normally I set prime pulse to zero and increase the cranking PWs, and normally I have a problem with wet plugs rather than dry.
There seems to be something strange with the fuel delivery, if you can monitor the pulses with a scope or at the very least a light then you will be able to ensure that the injectors are being driven correctly.

[Wayne]

Today, i give it the next chance to start.
The leds, which i had soldered, are paralell to the injectors.
And they will flashing when we crank.
Now i check the pulses via scope, to see how long the voltage is applied.

Are there some factors in the config, which i can change to get longer
injector pulse time while cranking ?
Is it better to set the "cranking threshold" to a higher value e.g. 800rpm?

[[email protected]]

In Settings->Priming Cranking Afterstart you'll find cold and warm PW values they're just before the cranking threshold, you can set the cranking threshold higher, but at the moment its not the cause of the problem as you're not going to be getting more than a few hundred RPM.
I drew up this event timeline to describe the stages of getting the engine running:

[Wayne]

ok thanks a lot,
i check all settings again and record the
injector signals afternoon.